LER5638AN2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I tried a new switch, This did not fix the problem. Then I replaced the Fuse in the back of the unit.

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

I removed 5 screws from the back of the top panel, removed the back panel, removed the start button from front of dryer, twisted the old start switch from the back, removed the two leads, reinstalled new part in reverse order. It was that simple! 15 minutes top. Dryer works fine. Gave me a chance to vacuum out all the dust bunnies and clean out the dryer vent pipe as well.
Thanks!

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.

My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

The dryer quit working. I did some trouble shooting on your amazing site, ordered what i thought it might need and then got to work. Took no time to get it apart and replace roller kit and belt. What took the longest was getting in there and cleaning out probably 15 years worth of dirt and dust. If you have not opened your dryer up and done this, 10/10 recommend, because in doing so i found that the motor was the real culprit. Once i opened it up more, especially cleaning around the blower fan and motor, i was half a day in. Put it all back together and got it running for two more loads before the motor quit. Replaced that and since the hard work was done, had it back in in half an hour and running great. Probably will need to redo the felt seal one day, but for now, i am calling it a win. This is my go to site for all things and i have been able to work on most of my major appliances and do it myself using the helpful information here.

I followed the video offered by your website and it was very informative and right to the point. Was very brief and easy to follow. I ordered the parts before 10:00am and received the parts the next day with the regular shipping.Very good website others need to benchmark you. I will use your service for future repairs and refer you to others.

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

My dryer timer would run through the heat cycle and move in to the cool down cycle. It would not move past the cool down cycle, and would not shut off automatically. I tried replacing the Thermal Fuse first, since I'd already removed the back panel to diagnose the problem. There was no change - the dryer did not shut off automatically. Next, I removed the back cover to the timer console. The Timer Power Resistor looks like a black circle and a rectangle joined together. It was attached to the back of the on/off switch by a single hex head screw, and the resistor has orange and black wires attached. The replacement Power Resistor doesn't look like the resistor that was in my dryer. It is rectangular in shape with 2 male spade connectors. I attached the orange and the black wires to the new power resistor. I started the dryer and it went through a full heat/cool down cycle, and automatically shut off with the end of cycle buzzer sounding. Total part replacement time was about 10 minutes.

pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.

Dryer would not start when the start switch was pushed. I was advised by the local repair shop to replace the "push to start switch" and the "thermal fuze". I unplugged the dryer and removed the back dryer casing which took all of 3 minutes. I removed the start switch and thermal fuze using directions on the whirlpool parts forum. This took maybe 5 minutes. I replaced with the new parts and put the casing back on the dryer. The entire project took 15 minutes. The dryer works perfectly. 34 USD for parts and shipping instead of 600 for a new dryer. Easy to identify the parts needed using the model number and the parts arrived the next morning I will use this company again for sure!

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.

Pulled to old out inserted the new. I would like to say your turn around from date part was ordered until I recieved it was three days, I find that amazing. I'm still waiting for a part I ordered from another company 1 month ago. The price was right shipping cost was very reasonable and your web site extremly easy to use. Thanks very much, Al

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!