4GWGD4900YQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

after reading your site reviews I bought all 3 thermostat's. It took about 30 minutes (with a coffee break) to change them all out and that saved me $400.00. I popped the lower front pannel off and all three thermostat's were accessable from there. i needed to remove the lent trap and tube which is held on by 2 screws to access the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. there was a lot of lint trapped in the tube. it was a few screws and some spade connectors. very easy repair. as I said above buy all 3 and it saved me $400.00.

First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and replaced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.

Thanks Mike

my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end

First time ever repaired anything let alone a dryer, I watch the video and followed instructions, was pretty simple, Works like a charm

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Removed the two screws under the lint trap
Opened the top (had to use flathead screwdriver to release latches)
Disconnected door switch harness from front panel
Removed 2 screws holding front panel on dryer
Lifted out dryer drum (previous belt had broken)
Vacuumed inside of dryer (found $3 in quarters!)
Put new belt around drum
Put drum back in dryer, using empty laundry soap bottle to support its weight
Looped belt around pulley and motor; secured pulley to dryer bottom
Made sure rear gasket thingy was aligned properly and drum turned freely
Put front panel back on
Re-attached door switch
Closed top and put screws back in under lint trap
Fired it up - WOOHOO!

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

Removed top and front of dryer then drum and followed the instructions in the package. It was a real simple procedure. I did additional cleaning while the dryer was disassembled.

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

Followed instructions, except to advoid sharp edges, and completed the job in under an hour.