3LWED5500YW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

1 screw to replace.

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.

I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

Replaced power cord, terminal block, and all melted wiring. Checked the thermal fuse for zero resistance.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

Just replaced the old lint filter.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.