YWED9450WW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Removed Back and found schematic. Found fuses on schamatic and parts inside dryer. Checked fuses and thermal fuses with an ohm meter and found one that was open. Went to Parts select and ordered part. Relpaced the part and dryer works like new.

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.