YWED6600WL0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I removed the top back plate and found the electrical schematic, found the fuse and themostat. Went to Whilpool web site found exploded parts list to identify part (fuse)

removed fuse and tested with MM for an open. It was. Shorted the leads to verify that the Dryer operated. Found your site and was easily able to identify the part from the excellent description and pictures. Ordered it, installed it work great thanks

My first deduction is of course the element since its past its engineered time failure . Check with a digital ohm instrument every thing beep, the element, the cut off thermostat, the fuse etc. The only thing I did not check is the electronic dials . Like I suspect that relying on the digital beeps for shorts sometimes when the metal plates of the thermostat stop expanding and contracting due to calcification or something..it will still give you a beep. But when I use an analog ohm meter the reading is very minimal....So what I did was to order the thermostats both the cutoff and the thermal I also the fuse. The element does not show any break cause you can physically see it. Then Eureka ..the parts replaced and my wife is all smiles......plus saved a lot of buko mony..Thanks for the help

We had to pop open the top. Unscrew front of dryer from sides. Disconnecting the wires was a bit more difficult than expected. We had to use a tiny screwdriver to slide into the sides of the white wire connector on each side before pulling apart. Front drum falls when front of dryer is removed. It took two of us to reassemble - one to hold the drum while the other put the front on. Our problem turned out to be one wheel. We replaced both wheels and saved the rest of the parts. Hums along just fine.

Replaced thermal sensors.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

I opened the top and front of the dryer. 1st I pulled out the drum and cleaned up the lint and mess from the busted support roller. Next it was a matter of looking at the enclosed drawing and instructions. I could not believe it was that easy.

Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.

I changed the belt, tension pully and rollers. Runs like new now. I also took the opportunity to clean it out real good while I had it apart.

I checked the Thermal Fuse and it was okay. Then I tested the timer and it was not working. Then I ordered the timer from this site and installed it in about 30 min. The dryer is now working.

Went on line and determined the problem was the thermal fuse. Removed the rear panel of the dryer, removed the leads from the thermal fuse, hooked them together and started the dryer. That confirmed the problemwas the existing fuse.Ordered the new thermal fuse, installed the fuse, hooked up the wires and it works finel Very simple fix. About a 10 year old dryer.

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

I removed the broken door catch with a screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to push the new door catch in place. It was an easy repair and saved me quite a bit of money.