YWED6600WL0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Unplug dryer from receptial. Poped top off, useing thin bladed screw driver to push tintion springs, while pulling up on lid. removed two no 10 sheet metal screws, useing 1/4 nut driver, this removes loading door by pulling uo 1/4 inch. Removed twi NO 10 sheet metal screws useing 1/4 nut driver, removed front carrage system. Removed belt then tub. Removed idler arm spring useing plires, used 5/8 inch socket removed sholder bolt with arm. Reverced procedure with one execption. Used two by four to hold tub up so belt could be put on, rolled tub to alline belt. Not bad for 70 Years young. Curtiss

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

Used putty knife to release catches on dryer top. Removed two screws in Lint Filter cover. Used Nut driver to remove the screws holding the front on. Removed the drum and had easy access to all the parts I was having trouble with. I believe the real problem was the Idler pulley but since I was already there I replaced the drum rollers also. While drum was out I vacuumed the inside of the cabinet. After parts were replaced i put everything back together in reverse order. Very Easy

Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.

very easily

Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.

Take door off dryer (unscrew four screws). Lay door on flat surface. Using glue provided glue down new seal. Put dryer door back on and you're done!

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

I looked at the parts breakdown to see how it cam apart.

I tore the dryer down,
1. removed the door
2. openned the top
3. removed front panel
4. removed fron bulkhead
5. removed belt and drum
6. removed back cover
7. removed the ductwork
8. removed the fan (this is the hardest part, it is very tight on the motor with left hand threads, there are flats on the (inside of the dryer)fan where the motor shaft goes into the fan for a wrench and you can put a socket on the front pulley on the motor. I ended up just knocking the center out of the fan and replacing it.
9. removed the motor and cleaned the entire unit
10. reinstalled everything in reverse order. Note:I went ahead and replaced the idler pulley and the rear wheels that support the drum, and put a new belt in (just about
everything that could fail) I spent about $200 to keep a $1200 dryer in service at least another 7 years.

I pulled off the front panel to access the motor and pulley systems underneath the tumbling cylinder. I disconnected the tension spring on the pulley assemble. Then after sliding the belt off the pulley, I removed the screw that held the pulley to the bracket. I put the new pulley on, slide the belt over the new pulley and attached the spring. Nothing difficult, just a little uncomfortable squeezing both hands into the bottom space.

My 80 series Kenmore dryer wouldn't start so I looked online for a solution to the problem. One of the sites I found stated that the problem could be as simple as a thermal fuse if other potential issues could be ruled out. I ordered the part on a Monday from PartSelect with standard FedEx ground shipping - stated it could be 3-5 business days. To my amazement, the part arrived the next day! Awesome!!! I watched the video on the PartSelect site to make sure I knew how to fix it, then followed the easy instructions. All I needed to do was use the nutdriver to remove the back cover from the dryer, unplug the two wires going into the thermal fuse, remove the old fuse, and pop the new one in. Then I just plugged the wires into the new fuse, replaced the cover and voila, the dryer worked like a champ! Thank you PartSelect for saving me a needlessly high repair bill!!

1 screw to replace.

Followed video instructions using flat scraper & pliers (easy).Tried to remove "SPARE" latch on other side of door. Even removed door myself (Easy).Tried for (45) minutes without success. Ordered part @ 11:30 pm. Replaced door easily by myself by leaving bottom screw for each hinge in place & replaced broken latch. Received new latch in (5) days. Removed broken latch without tools & replaced new latch in (15) seconds. Need help from any "Ladies" who can remove second latch so it is available for next replacement. This "Engineer" was too lazy to remove the screws around the door because he was going to "Follow the Video". Overall it was an "Easy Fix". Keep the 'Videos"coming.

I was not able to find a video (or other specific instructions) that showed how to access the insides of this particular machine, but eventually figured out that all it takes is popping 2 clips, one on either side of the door by wedging a flathead screwdriver in the space between the top of the machine and the bottom piece that surrounds the door opening. The top then pivots up and can be moved back beyond vertical so that it hold itself in position.

After removing the dryer door, getting to the drum itself was not too difficult and only involves removing half a dozen small bolts. I was able to move the pieces off to the side without disconnecting any of the wiring. Without looking at the parts diagram I can't name any of the pieces involved, but there were only a couple. The drum can then be lifted right off its rollers.

The replacement felt for this dryer has to be fastened with adhesive, and I would recommend running the bead of glue around half of the drum, setting the new felt in place, letting it sit for a few minutes to let the glue set up, then repeating for the other half. I tried installing the entire piece of felt at once, but after getting about 3/4 of it on, pulling the remaining unattached felt taut to fit around the drum ended up removing the first part of the felt because the glue did not have time to set up. If you've ever changed a bicycle tire, you'll know about reaching that point where the tire doesn't seem big enough to fit around the rim, but it just needs to be muscled into place. Same idea here, but trying to muscle the felt over fresh glue while the just installed part comes loose is frustrating and in my case almost resulted in ruining the entire new felt strip. Once the felt is anchored it's easy to pull taut over the remaining part of the drum.