WED7800XB0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Pretty easy repair and I am not very handy. I believe they engineer these machines so you hire someone to do the job. They could place that part in an area where it is easier to get to, like a door on the side or something

Followed the video.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

You tube

pushed the broken catch into the door and snapped the new one back in. Works perfectly!

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

I tried to remove the part with pliers but could not remove it so I removed the screws that hold the front part of the door. I took the front part off, removed the broken plastic and then lifted on side of the catch so that the bottom of the front part came thru the door and then was able to remove the door latch. The installation of the new part took about 15 seconds to put in by pushing it into the opening where the broken part was removed. I put the front part of the door back and put the screws back and the dryer works fine.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

Had to force the old door catch out using the putty knife didn't work. Worked on it until I finally forced it out.

The first thing I did was to watch the video from Part select on How to change thermostat cut off switch and the high limit thermostat fuse.I did not have a meter reader I just brought the thermostat cut off kit for about $ 32.00 dollars from part select and replace both part's and my dryer still was not getting hot so back to part select video's I looked up the video on replacing the heater element and I ordered one for about $ 97.00 with shipping I replaced it and put it back together and it worked it took just a few hours . I would like to give Avery special thank to part select for the video help and for having the parts for a great price again thank you so much.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

Used screwdriver to remove old catch as shown via video from manufacture and snapped in new catch. Very easy to do and saved big bucks by doing myself.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

I saw a couple of videos to replace this but found a simpler way to replace the heating element on my dryer. DISCONNECT the POWER.
I removed the lower panel (6 screws). Dis-connected two wires; one going to the heat sensor in the back and the other to the switch at the front. Removed the two screws to the metal plate in front of the heating element. Slid the whole heating assembly out. Removed the screws holding the heating element in the housing. Removed the failed (open) heating element and installed the new one. Reversed the process for re-assembly.