LEL8858EQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

I ordered the belt idler pully and drum support rollers and after watching the video on Parts Select web page, changed the parts. It could be done by one person, however having a second person to help with the drum installation worked great. I discovered the motor bearing on the front side of the motor was the source of the squeek. I disassembled the dryer again and removed the motor. After ordering a motor the installation and reassembly went smoothly. The parts came in two days of placing the orders and virtually new parts in the dryer makes it seem like a new machine.

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Removed the Lint filter, then lifted top panel and rested the panel against the wall.
Disconnected connector attached to the door panel.
removed screws, from both side of door panel and lifted door panel up and out.

Moved Idler pulley to the right taking tension off the drum belt, lift the drum out with the drum belt.
removed old drum felt seal and removed old residual glue, reglued and installed new Rear Drum Felt Seal.
Installed new Idler pulley Assembly and reassembled in reverse order.

I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!

The first thing I did was call my friend Donnie who manages some apartment buildings and who is always complaining about fixing things and getting the right parts to fix things. He told me what to order from PartsSelect and when the parts got here I called him up and he did the repair work.

He was reluctant to do the work at first but after he found out I had ordered the parts from PartsSelect he was happy to do the work. "Their parts are always right and they always work," was what he said after he had my dryer working just like new. So if you know nothing about fixing things and buying parts just call PartsSelect and you will be fine. Just ask my friend Donnie!!!

Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

I removed the six screws for the back cover of the control panel of my Whirlpool electric dryer (model #LEP6848AW0). I located the timer assembly and loosened/removed the two screws holding it in place. Using pliers, I removed the wires on the old timer, reconnected them on the new timer, installed the new timer into the control panel, and reinstalled the back cover. Note: the old timer design used a jumper wire, but the new design eliminates the need for this wire by making the entire terminal one piece of metal.

romoved from pkg. and fit it to the door. no tools needed. best of all the part came in 24 hrs and was fixed with out delay of waiting from a store that was out of our area. great costumer service!!!!!

Unplugged unit and removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum and belt. noting how belt ran through the belt tension-er. Removed old felt seal from rear of drum. Replaced broken baffle, replaced rear seal. reinstalled belt. Put unit back together and test ran.