LE3000XPW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. I lifted the top of the dryer for easy access to the screw that held the Heater Box. Removed the Heater box, unbolted the heating element, pulled the old one out put the new one in the reversed the process.

I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.

Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.

First disconnect power supply either by switching off breaker or unplug dryer cord, or do both if you are a safety freak. Pull dryer out so you can get to the back panel. Take the dryer hose off, then take screws out from around panel and remove it. For the THERMAL FUSE take one screw out, unplug wires and replace thermal fuse. For HEATING ELEMENT, unplug the two wires from element. At top of air duct there is one screw to get out. You need a long flat head screwdriver. Reach through a small hole on dryer back to the screw. Once screw is out, lift up on air duct to get it out. Once you have it out there is one screw holding heating element in air duct. Remove screw, slide element out and reverse steps from when you took it apart to put it back together.

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.

removed 5 screws holding back cover on. Oh yeah very important (that is if you'd like to be around to help your buddy do this) unplug the unit 1st!
Accessed the heat coil. Difficult to remove the element so opened top of dryer to access the screw that was on top of the housing was then able to easily remove the element and replace with the new one. Actually, removing the top of the drier was a very good thing because it gave me a chance to throughly clean out any lint. but number one reason was I found the drier door cutoff switch wire had come loose from its clip and was laying on top of the drum and slowly grinding the insulation off the wire! had not shorted yet but would have failed soon.
anyway... I got cheap when buying the parts and didn't buy the real part that was bad... (lesson learned) anyway found the parts I did replace were not bad. So back to the net again to order the last thermal limit switch and fuse. received the parts 3 days later installed them. Now life is good! Well at least dry warm shirts and socks! Decide to keep the extra parts just in case I need them down the line.
Actually even with the problems encountered "I" still repaired the drier myself saving big bucks and enjoyed the small but fulfilling challenge!
Excellent experience working through partselect.com

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.