CEE2790KQ2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

very easy

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

sounded like a pair of shoes was in the tub every time i started it no matter what size the load was. Replaced the back two rollers first and decided to start it to see how it sounded. We were glad. Only the back rollers were bad and the dryer was quietly running again. We would suggest replacing the back rollers first to everyone because the front rollers are more complicated to replace and they may not have to be at all.

Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet

Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.

Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.

Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.

Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.

Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.

Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.

Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.

At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.

Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.

Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.

This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.

Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.

Good luck on your repair endeavor!

You tube and supplied video directions for the make and model. Follow step by step and the repair went easy. Worried when removing the dryer drum but it went smooth.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

Removed Back and found schematic. Found fuses on schamatic and parts inside dryer. Checked fuses and thermal fuses with an ohm meter and found one that was open. Went to Parts select and ordered part. Relpaced the part and dryer works like new.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.