YCEE2760KQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

replacing the heating element was difficult due to the small area to work with and the defective element was difficult to slide out from housing.

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

Took the dryer apart and replaced the idler pulley with bracket and the drive belt

Before anything unplug the dryer
1) Remove the back panel to include electric cable. 2) Remove the lower front panel. 3) Remove top panel. 4) Remove control panel 5) remove door assembly to include metal frame and front panel of the blower housing. (much easier than trying to do this separately. 6) Remove drum belt by pulling back on the idler pulley (spring). 7) Remove drum. 8) Remove idler pulley retaining ring and pulley. 9) remove old seal on blower housing. 10) I added high temp grease to the pulley shaft and installed new pulley. 11) Install new blower seal. 12) Install drum and new belt. 13) Re-install all the panels.

Couple screws behind the electrical panel at the top and the top pushed back and was able to remove front panel, and then it was pretty easy. Take the two screws on top front, lint trap screws . The lint trap vent needs to come off. Then the belt, drum comes out to access the idler pulley. I did replace two drum wheels, I saw there was 5. I would recommend replacing all of them, they didn’t move well…..

Followed the instructions all went good except for the sliding the shield back in it didn't want to go back in but it does fit. Dryer works like new again.

I ordered the wrong part. It was pick and choose from the info provided.I checked again and found one that's 58% of the time the part.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3