WED8300SW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.

Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.

I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance.

The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.

I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine

Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 months! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!

1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30

use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in