4LEC6646DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !

Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.

The dryer stopped heating, it would only blow cold air. I removed the back panel and tested the thermal fuse with a dmm. The fuse was open, so it was bad and I needed a new one. I tested the thermostat and the dmm measured continuity across the terminals, so I thought it was good, bad assumption. I ordered a thermal fuse from partsselect and it came with a thermostat. Like a dummy, I only installed the fuse. The 1st time I ran the dryer the fuse blew again, because the thermostat was bad. So, moral of the story, install both parts.

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart
250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve

Our dryer quit heating and I feared that I would have to buy another one as I have never worked on a dryer. But figured I would go online and see what I could learn. Parts Select gave me the info that I needed.
Not being sure which part was bad I decided to start with the one time use Thermal fuse. When I noticed that it only cost 7 bucks and my wife had been complaining that the dryer had not been heating well for a while I figured I would go ahead and replace themostat. I ordered the thermal cut-off kit and replaced both parts. I put them on and plugged it back up and it is heating fine. I found the videos very helpful in showing how to do this.

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis

very easy

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.