WGD560LHW4 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

Replaced igniter

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

Followed the easy instructions on the video, and it worked. Sure beats calling a technician.

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

First disconnect power to the machine. Remove lower access door locate the igniter connector and disconnect it. Now, remove the screw holding the igniter to the mounting bracket with a 5/16" box wrench, carefully remove the igniter. Replace the old mounting bracket but first start the igniter mounting screw in the new bracket, threading it in all the way and then removing it to make installation easier. Install the new bracket and then the igniter, Be very careful, the igniter is fragile. Holding the igniter securely, install the mounting screw. Reconnect the wire connector replace lower door and plug the machine in. Voila! heat!!

Initially thought it was the thermal fuse since that has already been replaced twice before for the same type of problem. After replacing the fuse the same issue remained, so I did a little hunting on the internet and found some matrixes to help diagnose the issue. After a couple of minutes, I discovered it was the ignitor. I immediately ordered the part and received it in about 5 business days. Even though that took longer than previous orders (usually < 3 days), I was still happy to get the part at a MUCH cheaper price than available locally. Installation took about 5 minutes with only a 5/16" nut driver and we were back in business. Kind of glad it broke because the dryer needed a good de-linting and cleaning anyway. : )

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

Removed back panel and tested all components. Everything was good so had to remove front to test last 2 components. Removed front and used brick (handy tool when your working solo) to hold drum up and in place (with full load of damp towels). Defective igniter. Testing all took 10 minutes, replacement took 2. Spent more time opening and putting machine back together than testing and replacement took.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.