DCCB330GJ4WC Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer.
Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver).
Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

removed the two screws that hold the coils in place pulled the coils terminal connections off removed and replaced with new coils reattached quick disconnect terminals dryer now works better than when it was new

Wife was out of town, visiting family. I broke the door strike by wedging the dryer door between the laundry room door, closed the laundry room door and it snapped the door strike breaking it. I ordered the part, and it shipped fast using the standard shipping, nothing fancy. Grabbed a pair of pliers and pushed the new door strike into place. It snapped right in, fits and works perfect like nothing ever happened. The wife will never know :)

was no repair- removed filter from door and installed new filter into door. No tools required.

Our gas GE "Eterna" King Sized capacity dryer started squeaking one day. I was suprised since the dryer was only a few years old, but assumed some grit had invaded and worn a bearing in the belt tensioner. My wife and I have three kids, so we use the dryer daily. The sound got louder quickly and finally it was so loud I had do something. After unplugging the appliance I took the top off the dryer (two screws in the top of the door jam) and the front off (two screws at the top of each corner) and in doing so saw that the drum bearing, which is just a round plastic
"shelf" on which the tumbler drum rides, suspended over the door, was worn through. There were four little "slides" on the bearing surface, and all but one was worn down to dust. I ordered the replacement bearing and slides (two white, I didn't know I also needed two green and have since bought them too) from Part Select and they arrived in about three days. In the meantime I re-assembled the dryer easily and we did use it once or twice, shrieking. When the parts came in I installed them in about 20 minutes, screwing the new bearing onto the rear surface of the front panel, right over the opening for the dryer door. The dryer has worked perfectly since. I used one Phillips head screwdriver for the whole job and paid about $50.00 for the parts. I work in an office and I travel, and when I was a kid I fixed my own cars and stuff, but I'm no appliance repairma! Nevertheless, this was easy! I assume I saved at least $100. The dryer works perfectly and more importantly, it's quiet again!

I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks!
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Watched the video on a different style of dryer so taking apart a bit of a challenge. The old Front Drum Bearing was completely gone on left side and a challenge to pry it off the front dryer panel. replaced felt seal and front drum bearing. noticed that there was 4 places for new bearing slides. the ones i ordered were white and green but did not know why or which one went where as no explanation with packaging. also only ordered one of each and so now had to stop and try and find two more. ! hour later i had brought back a tupperware lid that was thick enough and stated could go to 194 degrees F. i cut out one replacement for green bearing and reused the old white one since it was in good shape from right side of drum bearing. i went back to this website and noticed in the comments section for drum bearing that someone stated the green bearing slides go in at positions 11 and 1 and the white at 10 and 2. they are different materials and having more weight of drum on green now made sense. put machine back together and told neice to keep eyes and ears on dryer thru cycle. she did not even know it was running just in next room.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part