AG7239 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

Removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel and pulled the cover up and out. Labeled the wires to the light and door switch and disconnected. Lifted the belt tensioner arm and unlooped the belt from it and the motor. Removed the 4 bolts that hold the front drum support on then held the drum up and removed the support. Pulled the drum out slightly and allowed the rear to drop, at this point you can get to the rear rollers without pulling the drum out of the machine. The roller shaft was so tight I had to put a straight-blade bit in a 1/4" socket to get enough torque to break it loose. Make sure to use a large enough driver or you will strip the slot out of the screw. This model had a nut on the back but I was able to just drag my finger against it to get it apart. Removed the washer and roller from the shaft and cleaned the shaft and washer with WD40 before reinstalling with the new roller. Vacuumed all the lint I could get to and reassembled, lift drum, push back, front support, 4 bolts, belt, wires, front panel, 2 screws.

My husband pulled drum out of dryer and replaced the idler pulley wheel and decided to replace the belt while he was in there. It's good to have a snap ring tool as it's a pain to replace the snap ring without this tool. Goes alot quicker!

Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.

popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done

I watched a video. The man speaking was Wayne from parts direct. He made the repair go so smoothly. I enjoyed watching him and I hope you include him in more videos. Had dryer apart and back together (after I had to take top back off, to re-attach the door switch, which I forgot. Had a senior moment!!) in 15 min.And working as good as new. Thank you Wayne. Have a nice day. Bryan

DISCONNECT THE POWER. (I got shocked a few times during the diagnoses stage). Remove the lint catcher. Pop the top of the dryer up (there are two plastic tabs along the front of the dryer. Remove the two screws for the lint catcher and open the top of the dryer. Loosen the screws between the side and front panels. Lift up on the front of the dryer to free it from the clips down below. Swing the front panel out of the way to avoid disconnecting the door-open-switch. Undo the two screws holding the bracket onto the gas burner regulator. Replace the coils. Reassemble in the reverse order. It was helpful to open the dryer door to help align the drum and front panels.

went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.

Installed new coil, helped but have other issues that I'm troubleshooting.

replace two heating coils. Dryer working find.

i removed the door and front panel then removed the two screws holding the coil bracket,disconnected the two wires on coils,set new coils in place and reversed the above process

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.