7MMGDX655EW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Had no definative directions so kind of had to play it by ear. once I got the top and front off the directions that came with the part were spot on. My biggest problem was I guess I was a little over agressive with the drum and I pulled the tension pulley off the bottom. I had to drill a hole and bolt it back down because I couldnt get the little flanges to bend over enough to hold it. It works now but I havent done a load of clothes yet to make sure it will stay together

took top off,took back off,took lower panel off,removed old motor without taking drum out,got the part # off old motor,looked it up on line then i found the video on how to do the repair...lol. The repair went well and the instructions that came with the new motor were very good as my motor had the old style switch and needed to be rewired. I did go one step further as long as i had it that far apart,I took the duct work apart on the back of the dryer for the vent and I was very glad I did,it had 25 years of lint and all sorts of other thing in it.I cleaned and lubed all other moving parts and reassembled,works and sounds like new !

Read the Use & Care Guide! I spent several hours trying to repair a dryer that was not broken because I was unaware of the "lint signal". While replacing a burnt out heater element I apparently disturbed the flapper on the lint signal box and it stuck in the open position. My wife who does the laundry has always kept the lint filter clean so we had never heard the lint signal and I assumed that the high pitched sound I was hearing must have been from a faulty gasket, belt, roller, pully, or motor. Boy is my face red!

I had to take the top loose and raise it up. There are two screws in exhaust vent you have to take out then you can raise the top. When you raise the top you will have to take the front loose and open it up enough to take the drum out. Go to the back and take the lower cover off and take the screws holding the exhaust vent out so the vent will come out the top. When you take the vent out you will see a fan on the end of the motor shaft. The fan is threaded on the shaft and it is left handed threads. As you face the fan you will have to turn the fan to the right to get if off. You will need someone to hold a back up on the motor shaft inside the dryer to keep it from turning. Take the motor out then get the new motor and wire it according to instructions. Install the motor on the motor mount, put fan on then put everything back in reverse order that you took it apart. The hardest part for me was putting the clips on the motor when I put it back together. Hope this helps you.

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

I watched several Youtube videos for this repair. The best showed a man taking you through every part of replacing the rear felt seal. I used binder clips from my home office and he used clothes pins to keep the seal in place while gluing it and letting it set. To completely finish this repair, it takes over 24 hours to get your dryer ready for drying again. Steps to repair: you need to get to the dryer drum, watch a video on how to do this to include taking off belt, idler pulley. Remove Drum from the dryer. take off all the old felt seal. take out new felt seal and place around the drum, it will be pretty tight. secure the seal by using clothes pins or binder clips all the way around the drum. this will help you keep the seal on the drum and guide you as you use the glue to bind the seal to the drum. Using the adhesive provided with the felt seal, going around the drum, glue down the seal and re-clip it so the glue gets a good grip. let dry of at least 1 hour. Cannot use the dryer for another 24 hours to make sure the glue dries completely and is ready for the heat. I had already replaced the 2 rollers, 2 shafts, belt, idler pulley and start switch and dryer still squeaked. Then I replaced the rear felt seal. NOW I am replacing the bulkhead because it is worn flat in some places and is warped. I am waiting on the part.

I watched the repair video on your website,that was abig help , dryer runs good

Raised top of dryer and removed screws holing front on. slid front panel up and off to remove drum. Seal was easy to install but you do have to be careful with the adhesive. After adhesive was dry laid dryer on it's back and installed drum. Reinstalled drum belt. Placed front panel back on and installed the two screws holding it in place. Set dryer upright and closed top.

I pulled thee dryer out from the wall, shut off the gas & disconnected the gas line & the air vent, I then removed the fasteners from the upper end of the lint chute assembly (accessible from the top of the machine). I then tipped the machine over on to its front side making the back fully accessible. After removing the back cover, I removed the remaining fasteners holding the lint chute assembly in place & removed the part. I then removed the assembly only to find that the seals were not included in the package even though I had specifically asked about the seal when I called in & place my order. The response to my question was " seals are included that is why it is called an assembly." The end result was that I had to use alternate material & fabricate my own seals in order to complete the installation. As a result a repair which should have taken no more that 30 minutes, took over two hours.

un plug, gas shut off, nut driver back cover, remove lint screen, slide top forward and lift. disconnect close sensor- front. remove front. remove drive belt and tub. get wife dressed in cookie monster footie pj's to hold motor with wrench while reverse threading fan. remove motor- order from this site, got motor next day. reassemble less than 30 minutes. Impress wife and get lovin!

Watched the how to video on the parts select site. The job to replace the motor was easy although I had some issues with the blower fan wheel as it is made of plastic and was frozen to the motor, yes I turned it the correct way for the left hand threads. I ended up distroying the blower fan wheel and had to buy a new one. I had to remove the rear plate to get at the fan component, but thta was easy to do also. This site should add a "Sometimes bought together" comment for the motor replacement. After all was done I read some of the other comments and found some others had the same problem with the fan wheel. Once I had all the parts the dryer went back together fairly quickly. The job was easy to do and I would believe almost anyone could do it.

It is a washer/dryer combo. First I unplugged the unit. I had to remove the top and front of the dryer, remove the belt and remove the drum. I then removed the side panel that the motor was on. That was a little tricky getting at a couple of the screws. I then took the flywheel off which was somewhat difficult. It screws off in the opposite direction and was hard to get loose. I unplugged the motor, no wires to connect. There is a clip on the front and back of the motor holding it in place. Take them off and the motor comes right out. Replace the new motor and screw the flywheel back on. Install the clips, plug the motor in and put everything back as you took it apart.

First unplug the unit and move to an area where you will have enough room to pull the drum out. I opened the top by sliding a screwdriver in the top left and right edge and popping the clips to allow the top to lean up and back against the wall. I tried to unclip the harness for the door switch but couldn't get the harness to release and instead took out the two screws holding the door switch in place. This is located on the top right inside the dryer door. Once the switch was off I was able to use the socketdriver to undo the two screws on the inside top left and right to release the front of the dryer by pulling up easily and unhooking the bottom front. I was then able to set the front of the dryer aside and begin removing the belt from the tension wheel and motor. Pay close attention to how the two are connected because it will confuse you putting it back together.The belt feeds through the tension wheel and when you release it the tension wheel is just sitting in place and may pop out of place. Remember which slots it sets back into for when you put the dryer back together. We removed the drum, checked the two rollers to make sure they were in good working order. I removed quite a bit of debris from them. Once the drum was out I pulled off the old seal. Took a piece of sandpaper to rub away any excess old adhesive and began installing the new felt seal. Follow the directions carefully to ensure that the seal is sitting on the edge properly before you begin applying adhesive under the edge. I had someone helping me to install the seal but probably would have needed clamps to hold the seal while working it on. It's not a super tight fit but is fitted and once you start putting it on it easily slips off the other side. A couple clamps would hold it in place if you don't have someone to help. Once the seal is on and you apply the adhesive you begin putting the drum back into place first by slipping the belt back over the drum where it can hang until you are ready to put it back on the motor. You have to make sure the seal isn't folded under the back of the dryer. Again a little tricky but if you gently spin the drum slowly counter clockwise a few times you can work it so it's not folded under. Once you see everything is in place you can reconnect the belt through the tension wheel onto the motor. Check drum again by spinning counter clockwise. Install the front of the dryer back on by setting it into the bottom clips. Put the top screws back in. Re-install the door switch making sure it's back in place with the tab sticking through the hole at the top of the dryer door. Bring the top back down. Close the dryer door and plug it back in and everything should be good to go. It wasn't a difficult job at all and I would probably attempt other repairs now that I've done this one. Beware the adhesive is kind of watery when it comes out but you don't need to use a lot under the edge of the seal. Good luck with your repair. I am thankful that PartSelect was so easy to order my parts from and I got the part within a few days. Thanks!