NGD5800DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I watched the video several times before beginning, which was very helpful. As I didn't have the tool that was recommended in the video, I used pliers, which although took longer, worked out fine. I also used pliers to pull the wires off of the old thermal fuse. My dryer had been not working for 2 months, so I was very pleased that I was able to watch a very detailed video, order the parts on the same website, and receive them very quickly (within couple of days.) My daughter who lives in another state googled my dryer model number with a description of the problem and found your website. She sent me the link of the video to watch as it appeared very easy to understand. She and I both were very impressed by the step-by-step instructions on the video, including a list of all the tools required. I am an 81 year old woman and had no problems fixing this by myself with the assistance of your website. I have recommended this site to several of many friends and family members. Thank you!

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

Unplugged dryer from electrical outlet. Removed top panel from dryer to get instructions for location of parts. Removed front panel to get to fuse and thermostat. Had to purchase small socket wrench to access nuts because of small space and angle of difficulty. Removed both parts, and replaced with new parts. Plugged dryer back in. Tested for heat. Working properly.

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

NOTE: Please make sure the dryer is un-plugged any time you are reaching into the access panel with your hands or a tool. There are exposed connections everywhere. After using the diagnostic testing instructions (usually attached to the inside of the front panel) I determined it was a faulty Thermal Fuse. The PartSelect video instructs you to take half the dryer apart to access the Thermal Fuse, but I found it easy enough to just access it with the front panel removed. I used a small 1/4" drive socket to remove the single hex head sheet metal screw holding the Thermal Fuse in place. I then slid the 2 wires off, noting which went to which lug. Installed the new thermal fuse and after starting the screw by hand, tightening with the small socket wrench. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the wires as you are doing it all by feel, but it's a lot easier than taking half the dryer apart. Also, make sure you check the exhaust path for obstructions, that might be why the ThermalFuse blew in the first place.

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

Replaced all 4 sensors. Still no display. Ran my thumb across all control buttons several times. Machine showed life. Looking good, but low heat. Replaced the heating coil, and now we have a new, 13 year old machine.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Found multiple videos on how to diagnose the problem. Parts plus showed me that over 50% of the time the problem was the thermal fuse. I put a jumper wire between the two connections on the thermal fuse to see if the dryer would fire up. Sure enough it did. Bought the $10 thermal fuse and changed it in less than 15 min.

Dryer works - thanks to a new fuse. Glad I tried this before just buying a new one. Video for my model indicated the fuse was located in the back and actually it was difficult to get to in the front. So extra time was wasted trying to get to fuse in the back. Thank you for the part!

took off back, took out 1 screw of thermal fuse. pulled off 2 wires. put on new thermal fuse put back 1 screw and plugged. in both wires. plugged in dryer to make sure it worked. threw in some wet clothes to make sure it worked.