DDG5180MAL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

DISCONNECT THE POWER. (I got shocked a few times during the diagnoses stage). Remove the lint catcher. Pop the top of the dryer up (there are two plastic tabs along the front of the dryer. Remove the two screws for the lint catcher and open the top of the dryer. Loosen the screws between the side and front panels. Lift up on the front of the dryer to free it from the clips down below. Swing the front panel out of the way to avoid disconnecting the door-open-switch. Undo the two screws holding the bracket onto the gas burner regulator. Replace the coils. Reassemble in the reverse order. It was helpful to open the dryer door to help align the drum and front panels.

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done

went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.

Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!

Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !

Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.

Followed directions from Youtube video

Moved the dryer so I had room to work. Took off front of dryer with torx socket. Took off drum belt then able to take out the drum. The glides were worn replaced with two new glides (held in with 5/16 screws). While apart replaced the heater assembly and replacement of the drum belt. Went very well and smooth.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

Gas valve coils need replacing I followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the video followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the videos showed!

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25 year old GE dryer started making strange scraping noises when running. This even when there were  no items in the appliance. Turning off the gas, and unplugging the power I disassembled the unit to find the nylon drum bushings worn down. Especially the felt like material under them that I think dissipates friction heat. A quick order to GD for the parts, 2 days later I had the part installed, and noise was gone.  

Kevin J. Reynolds.