DDC6400SCLAD Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

Unplug power. Remove the lint filter and remove the 2 screws under the lint cover lid. Use flathead screw driver to pop off the top of the dryer housing. The clips are located at the front two corners.Just wedge and lift up to unclip. Remove two hex head screws on each side disconnecting the side housing from the front housing. Disconnect the wiring harness at the front top right side if you are facing dryer. Lift up on the front housing to unclip the bottom of housing. Just lift up and pull housing face toward you at an angle. The circular dryer piece where clothes go into will be loose but still attached. It will sag down a little. Then on bottom left side unscrew two screws to remove the 2 coils. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver about 1.5" long and you will need to lift up on the dryer circular piece out of the way a little. Once you remove the crews, remove the clip holding the two coils. Remove the wiring from the coils. 1 coil has two leads and one has 3. Replace one at a time just in case your model is slightly different. Be sure to install the coil with the little knobby part up and in alignment for when you reinstall the clip/ bracket that holds it in place. Replace the coils and install the racket/ clip with 2 screws. Reinstall the wires. Reinstalling the front face of dryer housing is a little tricky because you have to slide the bottom back onto the clips while holding the circular dryer part up. Then push the front housing up against the circular piece so they are aligned and fit. While holding it, screw the two hex screws on each side. Then reconnect harness and snap the top housing back onto the front face housing clips. Reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Reinstall the lint trap and plug back in. The dryer is now fixed if that was your problem. Its a fairly simply job once you start doing it. Good luck.

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.

All I had to do was take the old filter out and put to new one in. It was easy and took less than a minutes time.

Gas valve coils need replacing I followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the video followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the videos showed!

1. Unplugged from wall, turned off gas and opened top cover. 2. Removed two wire clips for door switch and unscrewed front cover (2 screws inside). 3. Removed front cover and moved to side. 4. Unplugged connectors from coils. 5. Unscrewed coil screws. 6. Replaced coils and tightened screws. 7. Replaced front cover, tightened screws and reinstalled wire clips. 8. Closed top cover, turned on gas and plugged in power. 9. Dryer fired right up and made heat.

I opened the top,by removing the two screws inside the door
on the top. then removed the frount by removing the two 5/16 sheet metal screws inside facing the frount. then pulled the drum out and replaced the berring. Cleaned out the lent from the motor and duckings. Then reasembled.

No Problem. Replaced old dryer screen with new one.

1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now