DDC4498AGL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

pulled off door, front panel and rear access panel. unscrewed drum. cleaned every thing. removed and replaced front slides, belt idler pulley and rear bearing. Reassembled everything. Dryer is as quiet as a it was when brand new.

Replaced drum bearings, adjusted screw levelers trying to find the source of the noise. It was hard tracking it down. Finally lubricated the drum slides with WD40 and it resolved the problem for a couple days. Decided to try replacing the drum slides. The old ones did not look worn out - still had teflon surfaces - it was not metal on metal like I suspected. But when I got the replacement parts, there were 2 tubes of lubricant with notes that only this specific lubricant needed to be used on these slides. The teflon slides have a fiber material under them, and soaks up the lubricant. Problem appears to be solved. Whether it would be possible to purchase the lubricant only (since the slides looked OK) might be a question, however, the replacement kit cost was reasonable given that it solved the problem.

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

my two twin boys Mike and Curtis age 14 did the repare they toke of the front of the dryer then the top put the belt around the drum then put the top and front back on then went to the back and removed the panel and put the belt on the pulley then set the tension wheel then put the back cover back on
the repair was easy I watched to make sure they did it right and did not have to tell them how I am very proud of them they do great work
finding the part was easy and it was here the next day after I ordered it and it was only sent 3 to 5 work days. You guys have a great web site and fast shipping thanks for the good work!

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

The drum slides on my dryer had worn down to the point that an opening formed that allowed clothes to enter the gap and get pinched between the spinning drum and the door. This would leave a mark and sometimes a cut on the clothes. To repair: open the door and undo the screws above the door opening that hold the top on the dryer. It's hinged in the back so it swings up from the front once the screws are removed. Undo hex head screws on either side at the top that hold on the front of the dryer. Also loosened the same at the bottom of the front panel (includes the door). Pull the front off of the dryer. This exposes the drum slides on either side in the front of the drum. They're fastened to the frame of the dryer. Undo the hex head screws (2 each) and remove drum slide, then replace. I recommend one slide at a time so the other one helps hold the dryer in place. The kit includes both slides. Pretty easy once I discovered how worn the old slides were! The drum turns much easier and quieter now too!

Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.

First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was.
next i removed the screws in the front top panel.
next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place.
next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then,
next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it.
next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier.
next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

snapped in new latch

Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?