DCCB330GJ3WC Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Checked out the coil seemed ok. So I replaced the radiant flame sensor. No change. Then I replaced the High limit sensor still the heat was not staying on. I read some were in the troubleshooting guide that the coil can test good, but can still malfunction. So that was it new coil fix it, works like a new Dryer again.

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer.
Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver).
Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

Well, had I read more of the reviews on this website, I would have learned that my problem was the valve coils. Instead, I assumed it was the igniter, so I ordered and installed a new igniter to no avail. I was about to just go buy a new dryer at Home Depot and spend $600, but I had to try again so I read more reviews on this website and began measuring resistances across the valve coils and discovered I had a bad one. I ordered both just to be safe, and installed them and quickly enjoyed my first uninterrupted dryer cycle in over a year (for over a year, I had been stopping and restarting my dryer about 10 times for each cycle). So THANKS for this website and to all the home technicians who posted symptoms, resistances, and how-to-do-its to help me get this done. It was an empowering experience to fix this and have bookmarked this website for any future appliance fixes. It's a great website with all its schematics and postings.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Followed directions from Youtube video

Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !

Dryer was getting hot at start of cycle and would drop out flame and then cycle flame every 45 sec to 1 min. Pulled of panel to observe this and thought it was a heat sensor problem. Went online and people were saying a coil could be bad. I took coils out and tested them and they tested good but I bought new ones anyway as I figured they were going out of range as they heated up, This proved correct as dryer works .