DDC6000MBL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

and the problem wsa solve

I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

Unplugged dryer, and removed vent hose. Tilted dryer back, unscrewed 2 screws on lower front panel. Removed 2 screws on coil holder (needed a short screwdriver). Unhooked wiring harnesses from coils, and removed coils. everything in reverse for installation.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

Removed Two screws took out the coils put in the new ones
I ordered one day and got them the next day. Thank you partSelect For the quick service.

open the front of the dryer, open the back access panel, remove the old belt fragment, pull front cover away from bushing surface at the front of drum, drape new belt around the face of drum, match location visible as the track of old belt, reroute belt at the motor and install tensioner in the proper way, reattach front cover, install back panel, done.

Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

Pulled the top of dryer off. Separated the door from the drum seal or gasket, slipped the belt through, put the drive belt on the motor and then put it all back together.

First I checked on-line "how to change a dryer belt" and followed the instructions. Remove front panel and slide belt over drum, in the back, put belt around pulley and hand trun the drum. on-line instructions had pictures to ensure proper install. It was easy.

Used your sites diagnostic questions to determine that the gas coils were the most likely cause for no gas ignition. Ordered parts. Followed general directions from your web site....very helpful. Disconnected electrical chord. Removed lower dryer panel. Removed two bracket screws and bracket that held coiles in place on top of gas valve. Disconnected electrical clips and removed coils.....note that one coil is inverted as compared to the other. Cannot confuse as the electrical connectors are different. Slid on new coils, replaced bracket, carefully replaced screws. As space adjacent to coils is tight, be careful in tightning screws so as to not strip heads. Connected coil electrical clips. Plugged in dryer electrical cord. Tested dryer by starting up. Success, gas ignition. Cleaned out dust/lint on the inside of the dryer cabinet before closing up.

well at first I thought was a sensor so i got it, did not work, second intent fuse end sensor kit, did not work, so I thought must be a valve, so I toke other look up on the price of the valve, then i find a kit to repair that specific problem, so I order it, I got it very quick over night, so I installed in 15 min, and walla!!! did work. Thanks a lot. so if no flame, must be the valves...

I replaced the dryer coils in 5 minutes!!!! It was so easy! If I called a repair guy, he would have charged me $200. I fixed the problem in 5 minutes, and all it cost me was the price of the coils...$15. Sweet!!! I upgraded the shipping to 2-3day, and the coils arrived the NEXT day. Great experience, and very satisfying to fix my own dryer. The dryer works perfectly now and gets very hot!

I saw some videos to have an idea on Wat to look for,most of them described the sensors and the igniter, but one specific mentioned the coils. I did the testing and because all the components were fine I concluded that the coils was the problem. Went online ordered the parts, 2 days later got them, took of the old ones installed the new ones and the job was done drying perfectly. It cost me only $ 25 bucks and probably 10 or 15 minutes to fix it. Tanks part select You have an excellent service.