DDC4497AFL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The front panel must be removed on this unit after turning off power supply. First open dryer door and.remove the 2 screws facing upwards. Disconnect the light if applicable, using a putty knife insert under top to free the top from front cover this is to push on the retaining tabs that are inboard of the screw areas that you have removed. Raise top panel. It is hinged at settings panel. This is completely removable by sliding to the side Then locate the 2 small screws located in the side panels near the top. Once these are removed the front cover will be able to be removed carefully moving forward while supporting the drum you know can see the parts that need replacing on the lower right. Take a picture as reference!! With power off remove the retaining clip that holds the dryer solenoids in place using a short stubby screwdriver. One at a time replace solenoid by lifting and disconnecting the wires (they snap on.) Good time to also check for excess lint and clean out. Check drum bearing and glides..reassemble in reverse order ..

Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.

I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.

When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.

and the problem wsa solve

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

I replaced the dryer coils in 5 minutes!!!! It was so easy! If I called a repair guy, he would have charged me $200. I fixed the problem in 5 minutes, and all it cost me was the price of the coils...$15. Sweet!!! I upgraded the shipping to 2-3day, and the coils arrived the NEXT day. Great experience, and very satisfying to fix my own dryer. The dryer works perfectly now and gets very hot!

I saw some videos to have an idea on Wat to look for,most of them described the sensors and the igniter, but one specific mentioned the coils. I did the testing and because all the components were fine I concluded that the coils was the problem. Went online ordered the parts, 2 days later got them, took of the old ones installed the new ones and the job was done drying perfectly. It cost me only $ 25 bucks and probably 10 or 15 minutes to fix it. Tanks part select You have an excellent service.

Unplugged machine and turned off the gas. Removed top panel,4 screws along inside top edge of door opening. Used a wooden shim to pry the drum away from the surrounding "lip with felt padding. Slipped belt through.the trick is getting the belto around the entire drum. First I got it over the top of the drum, and fed it around the bottom by turning the drum and pushing the belt through the opening made by the shim between the bottom of drum and the lip with felt. It was kind of like feeding a bicycle chain onto a sprocket as you turn the wheel..
Removed back panel and vent hose, removed old belt laying on floor of machine, fed the belt onto the motor pulley and the tension pulley. Tension pulley presses on top side of belt. Belt should be in same position on drum as old belt, you can see a friction mark all around the drum from the old belt.
Replaced panels and vent hose. Put felt padding back into place wherever it slipped out. Very important because if you don't it scrapes the drum when turned on and makes a loud sound.
Dryer works perfectly again.

Replaceing only this item fixed my problem
with front panel removed Ignier would turn on, gas would light, ignitor went out as usual, but gas would shut off after a few minutes and not come back on.
Note gas dryers are supposed to light, heat up, igniter stop flame stop after it gets up to temp, shut off for a while then repeat the process, it would have saved a lot of time researching to have known that earlier.. Take front panel off screws off, take panel off holding the 2 round coils in place, unplug the one with 3 prongs and replace, tested dryer with the panel off and the door closed so there was no suction issue. put panel back on 5 minute fix if you knew what you were doing.

well at first I thought was a sensor so i got it, did not work, second intent fuse end sensor kit, did not work, so I thought must be a valve, so I toke other look up on the price of the valve, then i find a kit to repair that specific problem, so I order it, I got it very quick over night, so I installed in 15 min, and walla!!! did work. Thanks a lot. so if no flame, must be the valves...

super easy 2 screws and my 11 year old son took 5 minutes.

Used your sites diagnostic questions to determine that the gas coils were the most likely cause for no gas ignition. Ordered parts. Followed general directions from your web site....very helpful. Disconnected electrical chord. Removed lower dryer panel. Removed two bracket screws and bracket that held coiles in place on top of gas valve. Disconnected electrical clips and removed coils.....note that one coil is inverted as compared to the other. Cannot confuse as the electrical connectors are different. Slid on new coils, replaced bracket, carefully replaced screws. As space adjacent to coils is tight, be careful in tightning screws so as to not strip heads. Connected coil electrical clips. Plugged in dryer electrical cord. Tested dryer by starting up. Success, gas ignition. Cleaned out dust/lint on the inside of the dryer cabinet before closing up.