DDC4497AFL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.

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25 year old GE dryer started making strange scraping noises when running. This even when there were  no items in the appliance. Turning off the gas, and unplugging the power I disassembled the unit to find the nylon drum bushings worn down. Especially the felt like material under them that I think dissipates friction heat. A quick order to GD for the parts, 2 days later I had the part installed, and noise was gone.  

Kevin J. Reynolds.

I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

and the problem wsa solve

When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

First I removed the two screws that hold the front access panel. After taking an ohm reading on the coil I found it was an open coil. I went on line to find out where to get the part. PartSelect web site was very complete when I enter the part number. I was able to make the purchase on line. The part was stock and it arrived in 3 days without any special handling. I then unplugged the solenoid, removed the two screws that hold the coils on. Replaced coil and bracket .Tested the dryer and it was working properly. Installed the front panel. PROJECT COMPLETE!!

Actually, my boyfriend did the repair by taking off the top and back of the dryer to access the drum and belt he replaced the belt and put the dryer back together
We are greatful for your service and really happy we didn't have to drive all over to find the part.

check the coils first. parts shipped to house within 24 hours. 29 bucks with shipping!

Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.

2 part repair. I replaced the front drum slide kit in about 20 minutes. It was better but still made lots of noise (was quiet for about 20 minutes then started back) so I ordered the rear drum bearing kit & a new belt. Replaced them when parts arrived. The video was great (the instructions with the parts were poor). However, my model had a circlip holding the bearing to the mount in the heating element & the drum did not come out until I removed the 3 torx screws in the drum & the bearing remained attached to the heating element. The new bearing kit was the one shown in the video & it all went back together easily but the belt was impossible to get on from the front. My friend helped & we removed the back access panel (had to remove the dryer cord to get the panel off). Belt was easily fitted & thus far (1/2 hour of use so far) the dryer is quiet.