DDC4500SJM Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Unplug power. Remove the lint filter and remove the 2 screws under the lint cover lid. Use flathead screw driver to pop off the top of the dryer housing. The clips are located at the front two corners.Just wedge and lift up to unclip. Remove two hex head screws on each side disconnecting the side housing from the front housing. Disconnect the wiring harness at the front top right side if you are facing dryer. Lift up on the front housing to unclip the bottom of housing. Just lift up and pull housing face toward you at an angle. The circular dryer piece where clothes go into will be loose but still attached. It will sag down a little. Then on bottom left side unscrew two screws to remove the 2 coils. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver about 1.5" long and you will need to lift up on the dryer circular piece out of the way a little. Once you remove the crews, remove the clip holding the two coils. Remove the wiring from the coils. 1 coil has two leads and one has 3. Replace one at a time just in case your model is slightly different. Be sure to install the coil with the little knobby part up and in alignment for when you reinstall the clip/ bracket that holds it in place. Replace the coils and install the racket/ clip with 2 screws. Reinstall the wires. Reinstalling the front face of dryer housing is a little tricky because you have to slide the bottom back onto the clips while holding the circular dryer part up. Then push the front housing up against the circular piece so they are aligned and fit. While holding it, screw the two hex screws on each side. Then reconnect harness and snap the top housing back onto the front face housing clips. Reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Reinstall the lint trap and plug back in. The dryer is now fixed if that was your problem. Its a fairly simply job once you start doing it. Good luck.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

First I shut off the gas and unhooked the gas line. Then opened the door and removed the screws that hold the top down in the front. I then tipped the top back so I could get to the top of the drum. I removed the screws ( 4 ) inside the door opening and slid the felt seal back. Next I put the belt in the drum and feed part out the crack between the drum and the dryer frame, being careful not to cut the belt. I woorked the belt around the crack and pulled it toward the drum. When I got the belt through it was all the way around the drum and I just put the belt over the motor pully and pulled the tensioner back and wrapped the belt over it. Put all the screws back in and the back on and fired it up. Works as good as it ever did.

I shut off the power supply (pulled plug) . Opened the front access door on bottom of dryer, The two coils sat on top of burner unit, with a plate and 2 Phillip head screws securing them. .I used a small set of pliers to pull the terminals off, then I used a short Phillip head screw driver due to the proximity of the dryer drum close by. The coils slide off, slide the new ones on, re secure the plate with screws, reconnect the terminals, plug in the power cord and away you are for a fraction of the cost.

I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken.
As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement.
At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE

Remove the bottom cover of dryer to look at the motor, see belt hanging remove broken belt. Remove screws from the top and front, slide belt over drum put small piece of tape to hole belt in place replace screws go back to the rear pull belt over the motor pulley close back panel

Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.

Removed Front of Machine, removed access panel on back of machine, reassembled after installing belt and cleaning out machine. Pretty Easy, hardest part is getting around the front of the drum.This machine has been going since 1978. 31 years, 2nd replacement belt and thats all, not bad, the washer that was bought at the same time went around 6 years ago, havent had the same luck, since then, two machines and the latest one is giving me problems already. They dont make them like they used to.

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

The front panel must be removed on this unit after turning off power supply. First open dryer door and.remove the 2 screws facing upwards. Disconnect the light if applicable, using a putty knife insert under top to free the top from front cover this is to push on the retaining tabs that are inboard of the screw areas that you have removed. Raise top panel. It is hinged at settings panel. This is completely removable by sliding to the side Then locate the 2 small screws located in the side panels near the top. Once these are removed the front cover will be able to be removed carefully moving forward while supporting the drum you know can see the parts that need replacing on the lower right. Take a picture as reference!! With power off remove the retaining clip that holds the dryer solenoids in place using a short stubby screwdriver. One at a time replace solenoid by lifting and disconnecting the wires (they snap on.) Good time to also check for excess lint and clean out. Check drum bearing and glides..reassemble in reverse order ..

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.