DDC4397VSL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.

opened shipping carton,removed wrapping,took new lint catcher
in BOTH hands,placed in space holder & dropped new lint catcher
in opening & fit perfect, closed Dryer door & job completed.
Took at least 4 min!!!!!!

Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.

The front panel must be removed on this unit after turning off power supply. First open dryer door and.remove the 2 screws facing upwards. Disconnect the light if applicable, using a putty knife insert under top to free the top from front cover this is to push on the retaining tabs that are inboard of the screw areas that you have removed. Raise top panel. It is hinged at settings panel. This is completely removable by sliding to the side Then locate the 2 small screws located in the side panels near the top. Once these are removed the front cover will be able to be removed carefully moving forward while supporting the drum you know can see the parts that need replacing on the lower right. Take a picture as reference!! With power off remove the retaining clip that holds the dryer solenoids in place using a short stubby screwdriver. One at a time replace solenoid by lifting and disconnecting the wires (they snap on.) Good time to also check for excess lint and clean out. Check drum bearing and glides..reassemble in reverse order ..

unknown
25 year old GE dryer started making strange scraping noises when running. This even when there were  no items in the appliance. Turning off the gas, and unplugging the power I disassembled the unit to find the nylon drum bushings worn down. Especially the felt like material under them that I think dissipates friction heat. A quick order to GD for the parts, 2 days later I had the part installed, and noise was gone.  

Kevin J. Reynolds.

Removed Front of Machine, removed access panel on back of machine, reassembled after installing belt and cleaning out machine. Pretty Easy, hardest part is getting around the front of the drum.This machine has been going since 1978. 31 years, 2nd replacement belt and thats all, not bad, the washer that was bought at the same time went around 6 years ago, havent had the same luck, since then, two machines and the latest one is giving me problems already. They dont make them like they used to.

Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.

I opened the top,by removing the two screws inside the door
on the top. then removed the frount by removing the two 5/16 sheet metal screws inside facing the frount. then pulled the drum out and replaced the berring. Cleaned out the lent from the motor and duckings. Then reasembled.

1. Unplugged from wall, turned off gas and opened top cover. 2. Removed two wire clips for door switch and unscrewed front cover (2 screws inside). 3. Removed front cover and moved to side. 4. Unplugged connectors from coils. 5. Unscrewed coil screws. 6. Replaced coils and tightened screws. 7. Replaced front cover, tightened screws and reinstalled wire clips. 8. Closed top cover, turned on gas and plugged in power. 9. Dryer fired right up and made heat.

Gas valve coils need replacing I followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the video followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the videos showed!

and the problem wsa solve

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!