DDC4492AFL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Opened up dryer for access to all components and tested. All checked good. Put back together and tested and igniter came on but no flame. Purchased two new coils and tested again. No flame. Purchased complete valve assembly and replaced old one. Tested again and viola, success! TY PartSelect for exact replacement part.

The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.

Unplug dryer first! Remove toe panel with 1/4" nut driver on each lower corner. Gas assembly will be on the right immediately below right of drum. Use a short Phillips screwdriver to break loose two screws retaining hold-down plate on gas valve coils. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the screwdriver on screws which are not easy to apply torque to. Each coil will easily slip off stem. Disconnect catch on plug with very small flat tip screwdriver for each coil, then pull off connector. Ensure the 3-terminal coil goes to the front and the 2-terminal to the rear. Note aligning tips on coils which correspond to holes in hold down plate. Reassemble in reverse order except for toe panel. Plug in dryer and verify gas valve operation and flame presence. Replace toe panel.

Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.

Unplug power. Remove the lint filter and remove the 2 screws under the lint cover lid. Use flathead screw driver to pop off the top of the dryer housing. The clips are located at the front two corners.Just wedge and lift up to unclip. Remove two hex head screws on each side disconnecting the side housing from the front housing. Disconnect the wiring harness at the front top right side if you are facing dryer. Lift up on the front housing to unclip the bottom of housing. Just lift up and pull housing face toward you at an angle. The circular dryer piece where clothes go into will be loose but still attached. It will sag down a little. Then on bottom left side unscrew two screws to remove the 2 coils. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver about 1.5" long and you will need to lift up on the dryer circular piece out of the way a little. Once you remove the crews, remove the clip holding the two coils. Remove the wiring from the coils. 1 coil has two leads and one has 3. Replace one at a time just in case your model is slightly different. Be sure to install the coil with the little knobby part up and in alignment for when you reinstall the clip/ bracket that holds it in place. Replace the coils and install the racket/ clip with 2 screws. Reinstall the wires. Reinstalling the front face of dryer housing is a little tricky because you have to slide the bottom back onto the clips while holding the circular dryer part up. Then push the front housing up against the circular piece so they are aligned and fit. While holding it, screw the two hex screws on each side. Then reconnect harness and snap the top housing back onto the front face housing clips. Reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Reinstall the lint trap and plug back in. The dryer is now fixed if that was your problem. Its a fairly simply job once you start doing it. Good luck.

Moved the dryer so I had room to work. Took off front of dryer with torx socket. Took off drum belt then able to take out the drum. The glides were worn replaced with two new glides (held in with 5/16 screws). While apart replaced the heater assembly and replacement of the drum belt. Went very well and smooth.

Followed directions from Youtube video

Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !

Dryer was getting hot at start of cycle and would drop out flame and then cycle flame every 45 sec to 1 min. Pulled of panel to observe this and thought it was a heat sensor problem. Went online and people were saying a coil could be bad. I took coils out and tested them and they tested good but I bought new ones anyway as I figured they were going out of range as they heated up, This proved correct as dryer works .

Well, had I read more of the reviews on this website, I would have learned that my problem was the valve coils. Instead, I assumed it was the igniter, so I ordered and installed a new igniter to no avail. I was about to just go buy a new dryer at Home Depot and spend $600, but I had to try again so I read more reviews on this website and began measuring resistances across the valve coils and discovered I had a bad one. I ordered both just to be safe, and installed them and quickly enjoyed my first uninterrupted dryer cycle in over a year (for over a year, I had been stopping and restarting my dryer about 10 times for each cycle). So THANKS for this website and to all the home technicians who posted symptoms, resistances, and how-to-do-its to help me get this done. It was an empowering experience to fix this and have bookmarked this website for any future appliance fixes. It's a great website with all its schematics and postings.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman