DBB3300GA2AA Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

Pulled off old knob and snapped new one into place. Took about 5 seconds. Must be a lame design cause my dryer's less than 2 years old and the knob snapped on the inside and wouldn't turn. Easy to fix though.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

The timer knob was sent, but the part on the dryer that was broken was a different knob. We were able to use the knob, but it was much bigger than the old knob.

I believe the diagram for the dryer showed the timer knob, but not the three other knobs.

I wish we would have received the correct knob, but the supplied knob is working for us.

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .

I removed the right side panel and top panel from the dryer. I removed the 2 wire and 3 wire connectors from the 2 coils. I removed the bracket holding the 2 coils, replaced the 2 coils, and replaced the bracket. I reconnected the wires to the appropriate coils and replaced the side and tops panels on the dryer. The dryer now lights every time the dryer calls for heat.

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

Line up knob. Push on.

I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!

took 2 screws out and replace new coils

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.