DCCB330GT0AC Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Just removed old lint filter and inserted new lint filter. It fit perfectly.

Removed old filter and inserted new filter. Voila!

I shut off the power supply (pulled plug) . Opened the front access door on bottom of dryer, The two coils sat on top of burner unit, with a plate and 2 Phillip head screws securing them. .I used a small set of pliers to pull the terminals off, then I used a short Phillip head screw driver due to the proximity of the dryer drum close by. The coils slide off, slide the new ones on, re secure the plate with screws, reconnect the terminals, plug in the power cord and away you are for a fraction of the cost.

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.

I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.

handle broke on sunday( not the best day to order things). ordered it from this site and had it by tuesday. great service and best price i found on the web. tks

All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.

1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Unplug power. Remove the lint filter and remove the 2 screws under the lint cover lid. Use flathead screw driver to pop off the top of the dryer housing. The clips are located at the front two corners.Just wedge and lift up to unclip. Remove two hex head screws on each side disconnecting the side housing from the front housing. Disconnect the wiring harness at the front top right side if you are facing dryer. Lift up on the front housing to unclip the bottom of housing. Just lift up and pull housing face toward you at an angle. The circular dryer piece where clothes go into will be loose but still attached. It will sag down a little. Then on bottom left side unscrew two screws to remove the 2 coils. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver about 1.5" long and you will need to lift up on the dryer circular piece out of the way a little. Once you remove the crews, remove the clip holding the two coils. Remove the wiring from the coils. 1 coil has two leads and one has 3. Replace one at a time just in case your model is slightly different. Be sure to install the coil with the little knobby part up and in alignment for when you reinstall the clip/ bracket that holds it in place. Replace the coils and install the racket/ clip with 2 screws. Reinstall the wires. Reinstalling the front face of dryer housing is a little tricky because you have to slide the bottom back onto the clips while holding the circular dryer part up. Then push the front housing up against the circular piece so they are aligned and fit. While holding it, screw the two hex screws on each side. Then reconnect harness and snap the top housing back onto the front face housing clips. Reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Reinstall the lint trap and plug back in. The dryer is now fixed if that was your problem. Its a fairly simply job once you start doing it. Good luck.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

First I shut off the gas and unhooked the gas line. Then opened the door and removed the screws that hold the top down in the front. I then tipped the top back so I could get to the top of the drum. I removed the screws ( 4 ) inside the door opening and slid the felt seal back. Next I put the belt in the drum and feed part out the crack between the drum and the dryer frame, being careful not to cut the belt. I woorked the belt around the crack and pulled it toward the drum. When I got the belt through it was all the way around the drum and I just put the belt over the motor pully and pulled the tensioner back and wrapped the belt over it. Put all the screws back in and the back on and fired it up. Works as good as it ever did.

I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken.
As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement.
At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE

I watched a video. The man speaking was Wayne from parts direct. He made the repair go so smoothly. I enjoyed watching him and I hope you include him in more videos. Had dryer apart and back together (after I had to take top back off, to re-attach the door switch, which I forgot. Had a senior moment!!) in 15 min.And working as good as new. Thank you Wayne. Have a nice day. Bryan