DDC6000MDL Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!

Removed Two screws took out the coils put in the new ones
I ordered one day and got them the next day. Thank you partSelect For the quick service.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

The repair was simple with my mechanic relative handling the tools. Total time about 25 minutes.

Previous repairs to the venerable machine with parts obtained freom Part Select and shipped to Germany: new drive motor and drum bearings.

Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

Pulled the top of dryer off. Separated the door from the drum seal or gasket, slipped the belt through, put the drive belt on the motor and then put it all back together.

First I checked on-line "how to change a dryer belt" and followed the instructions. Remove front panel and slide belt over drum, in the back, put belt around pulley and hand trun the drum. on-line instructions had pictures to ensure proper install. It was easy.

open the front of the dryer, open the back access panel, remove the old belt fragment, pull front cover away from bushing surface at the front of drum, drape new belt around the face of drum, match location visible as the track of old belt, reroute belt at the motor and install tensioner in the proper way, reattach front cover, install back panel, done.

Used your sites diagnostic questions to determine that the gas coils were the most likely cause for no gas ignition. Ordered parts. Followed general directions from your web site....very helpful. Disconnected electrical chord. Removed lower dryer panel. Removed two bracket screws and bracket that held coiles in place on top of gas valve. Disconnected electrical clips and removed coils.....note that one coil is inverted as compared to the other. Cannot confuse as the electrical connectors are different. Slid on new coils, replaced bracket, carefully replaced screws. As space adjacent to coils is tight, be careful in tightning screws so as to not strip heads. Connected coil electrical clips. Plugged in dryer electrical cord. Tested dryer by starting up. Success, gas ignition. Cleaned out dust/lint on the inside of the dryer cabinet before closing up.

well at first I thought was a sensor so i got it, did not work, second intent fuse end sensor kit, did not work, so I thought must be a valve, so I toke other look up on the price of the valve, then i find a kit to repair that specific problem, so I order it, I got it very quick over night, so I installed in 15 min, and walla!!! did work. Thanks a lot. so if no flame, must be the valves...

I replaced the dryer coils in 5 minutes!!!! It was so easy! If I called a repair guy, he would have charged me $200. I fixed the problem in 5 minutes, and all it cost me was the price of the coils...$15. Sweet!!! I upgraded the shipping to 2-3day, and the coils arrived the NEXT day. Great experience, and very satisfying to fix my own dryer. The dryer works perfectly now and gets very hot!

I saw some videos to have an idea on Wat to look for,most of them described the sensors and the igniter, but one specific mentioned the coils. I did the testing and because all the components were fine I concluded that the coils was the problem. Went online ordered the parts, 2 days later got them, took of the old ones installed the new ones and the job was done drying perfectly. It cost me only $ 25 bucks and probably 10 or 15 minutes to fix it. Tanks part select You have an excellent service.