AE3413 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Leaned machine back and put blocking under machine to elevate. Removed two screws from front of bottom panel. Lift panel out and set aside. Next remove two bottom screws from door frame. Pull bottom of frame out and up to release. Remove wire clips from door light and switch. Set door frame aside. Inside drum, take three phillips head screws out, that hold filter frame in, remove filter frame. Next remove four front screws on drum alignment face plate. Set aside. Grasp drum and pull forward, off back guide rollers. Drum will drop down a little, reach in around drum and slide belt off. Remember to look in under drum to see proper placement of belt aroun motor shaft and idler pulley. Replace new belt around drum with ribs against drum. Route belt around motor shaft pulley, pull idler pulley toward motor and place belt around pulley smooth top runs against pulley. Reinstall everything you removed. Connect wires to door.

removed old element, relaced with new element , thermostat dryer works better than it has in along time

replaced the limit thermostat,thermal fuse, and cycling thermostat. Bingo. Problem solved. Noticed that the back of cycling thermostat had a buildup of lint and I'm wondering if that acted as insulation and caused a wrong reading of temperature. Did not have to disassemble dryer as I could reach all parts with lower front panel removed. To make it easer to install new parts with one hand I lightly hot glued the screws through the new parts and taped the upper portion of new part to bulkhead. With everything lined up and no need to hold the screws I was able to attach using one hand. It was a reach but easily done.

Just snapped the new plastic latch into the hole (the hole was there because in trying to extract the old latch, it fell into the inside of the door). Took two seconds. Order to arrival of the part took only 22 hours!

I just lifed the old grate off and layed the new one in.

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.

replaced both fuses removed panel and removed fuses and checked for continuity and replaced with new fuses

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

Replaced Thermostat Boosting heater and Cycling Thermostat located behind the front blower cowling. I did not remove the wiring until I had the new part so that i could connect them in the proper order.

noticed that male half was in good working order, so I just snapped in the new female half; without any tools. easy repair!

Unplugged the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the spring clips. Opened the top and photographed then disconnected the wires at the top of the terminal block. Removed the old power cord and terminal block. Installed new terminal block. Reconnected wires according to pictures. Installed new power cord.

Pushed in the Door Catch, and it was fixed.

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Too simple to describe.