DCLR333GT0AA Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

I changed the two coils for the gas valve and the dryer is now working fine thanks

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

First of all I am NOT a do-it-yourself handyman. I unscrewed the panel where the start knob was diagnosed I needed an electrical switch that went behind the panel and a new start knob. PartSelect was great. just plugged in my model number, found the drawings of the model. I selected and ordered both parts for $40. Shipped normal delivery and they arrived in 5 days. I had the parts replaced, the panel screwed back on and the dryer working in 10 minutes. I highly recommend PartSelect for honesty, speed and helpful drawings that allow you to select the correct part. 110% satisfied.

My husband replaced the rotary start switch that we bought. However, the dryer still would not start. He then tested each remaining switch/dial (before we spent more money on parts) to see if the dryer would start if the electrical connection by-passed that part. None of the top panel switches was the culprit. Then he pulled the door switch. The dryer worked with the switch out, but still connected. He reset each wire, put the door switch back in place, and it failed again. He pulled the switch, added electrical tape to all the connections, and put it back. The dryer works fine now.

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

On arrival at rental in Florida, knob & half of shaft are on top of the dryer. Thanks! It's fixed

It was a very simple repair. I just opened my box from the mail and pushed the knob into place.

First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

Pull old one out stick new one in. Less than 1 minute. Last repair was the water pump that was easy.