CE8407W2-PCE8407W2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

did basic diagnostics to narrow down the problem to be likely one of the three parts include w/ the kit. removed front panel and confirmed that part looked like the one on the web page. part arrived 3 business days after ordering.
used nutdriver to remove two screws holding old part in place. pulled old part out still attached to wiring harness and assembled new part and attached wires the same way as the old part. installed new part, plugged in dryer and confirmed that it was heating. replaced front pannel and dryer is now working as well as ever. hardest part was reaching to the back of the dryer from the front while lying on the floor. total cost was cheaper than a service call, let alone paying for parts and labor from a service tech.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

How to take apart a dryer:
The first way:
1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).
2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.
3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:

The second way:
1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.
2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.
3) Remove dryer lid:
3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit
3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer
3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips
4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum
5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.

Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.
Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.
Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.
Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.

Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!

disassembled the entire dryer drum and front bulkhead plate. Installed belt and replaced drum on rollers and positioned idler pulley .Video was very helpful in positioning drum and belt onto idler pulley. More trouble with the existing dryer vent replacement after repairs were complete

I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.

As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.

After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.

I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.