YWED560LHW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

unpluged dryer removed back cover removed heating element replaced new part and back cover job complete

We removed front cover, then removed the part in front of the element. Removed old element after taking out screw that held it in. Then placed new element in.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

Removed the bottom front panel. The difficulty was in locating and testing the components because of access. Removing the heater required removing the heat shield and bracket and restraining screws, and then pulling out the heater with pliers which was stuck because of age. Dryer now works fine.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

this belt is too thin for the capacity of this dryer.I had only removed the front panel,replaced the belt and immediately the dryer start.

My dryer is one of the energy efficient models (HE). The video for the installations was knowledgeable, but getting into the front of mine only required removing to screws from the bottom left & right corner (not using a putty knife to pop the springs). the plate on the front drops after that. Also when taking out the tube with the dryer element in it took a lot more twisting inside the frame to get it loose. Still turn it after the wire connections have been pulled off a little bit better than 1/4 of a turn. Also the heating element was in there really, really tight. It required tapping on the plate with a screw driver and a rubber hammer to take it out & put in (not that tough). After putting it in a 1/4 of a turn so that the tab was inside the blower tube. everything after that was pretty easy. The video showed this all being done in a clean dryer. It has been my experience that before all is running & closed back up that a vacuum or shop vac needs to go thru there to clean things up & prevent a future fire.

Opened up unit and followed tech directions on inside pocket to isolate the problem to the heating element. Pulled it out and sure enough it was broken in one place. Found the part on PartSelect and ordered it on Saturday, received it on Wednesday. Replaced the new heating element into the assembly, reinstalled the assembly and connected the wires. Works like new now!

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

This was such an easy repair that my brother (who is a handyman but with no dryer experience) was able to remove the old element and install the new one in about 30 minutes. I was so happy that I found this website and that the part worked on the first try. I think my dryer works better than ever before!!

Pretty straight forward, only hard part was getting the housing for the heating element out. After that it was plug and play. Added benefit was cleaning out the inside and dryer vent while I was in there.

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

I purchased a new heating element installed and stil had same problem. I order the 2 sensor (kit) located in same area and that took care of problem. I should have purcahsed all at same time like someone else told us in the website. Thanks parts select for the very fast delivery

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!