8TWGD6622HW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.

Replaced coils on gas valve.

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet

Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.

Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.

Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.

Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.

Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.

Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.

Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.

At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.

Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.

Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.

This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.

Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.

Good luck on your repair endeavor!

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.