8TLDR3822HQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Hi, I am a working mom, and my dryer quit just after it had been behaving strangely. At first, it kept spinning after the door was opened. It eventually stopped working, and I assumed that the door switch must be the culprit. I purchased the part from the catalogue, and watched the installation video. Repair: After unplugging the dryer and removing the lint screen, I used a philips head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws located at the lint trap. I then inserted a flat screwdriver into the area between the top of the dryer casing and the face. Per the video, at approx. 2 inches in from the left and right side. I did this while gently applying pressure from the back of the dryer top to the front. This loosens the clips allowing the top to be lifted back and out of the way. I then opened the dryer door and commenced loosening and removing the two screws that hold the dryer switch in place. I used my screwdriver to gently separate the wiring harness connection, as it also has a clip to keep the connection tight. With these items free, I simply popped the little black thingy back through the hole (The black thingy just keeps the slack in the wiring from sagging, I think). With the old part removed, I then installed the new part accordingly. I reversed my way back out of the process respectively. I plugged her back in, and turned her on. Back in business.

First unplug unit to avoid shock. Using a flap blade screwdriver lift the front corners of the top. Unplug the switch located on the right side in the front. Remove two screws holding the switch in place. Remove old switch and reverse to install new switch. Entire project took less than 10 minutes. Oh yes the wife was so happy she made me a dish of fudge brownies. :)

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Removed old assemblies manually and replaced with new. Very easy and the parts fit perfectly!

Popped out the old lent trap & popped in the new one..and walla perfect repair..

The videos showed the tech taking the front off the unit but my unit didn't play that game. Instead all I had to do was take the top loose, (don't forget to take the dryer vent screws out first, that was the first beer) then access to the switch was easypeezy. That coupling for the switch assembly was 2 beers long. Anyways, got it all back together and it works like it's suppose to.

Easy repair. Bought replacement parts on Amazon and they lasted 1month. Should have purchased from you in the first place. Re replaced with your parts and no issues.

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

First and foremost turn power off to dryer at main box. Next remove screws say lint filter, then gently pry right and left front corners up with putty knife. Raise top and secure. Disconnect switch wire by using flathead sliding in between connection. Next remove 2 screws under front opening to dislodge switch. Repeat process in reverse order...takes 30 min. tops...

I remove the lint trap and the two screws that held the top down. Next to unscrew the two screws that holds the door switch. I prized the top up with a screwdriver . I unplugged the door switch and plugged in the new one. I inserted the switch into the door and replace the screws. I snapped the top back into place and replace the screws in the lint trap. I close the door and turn the dryer on and it worked. I followed the directions you provided on line. They were very easy to follow.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)