4KWED5600JW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions
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Front seal was ripped.
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
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- Customer:
- Susan from DELAND, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10861225
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Dryer handle broke.
I ordered the new handle and installed it in just a few minutes. Very simple--no tools required!
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
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- Customer:
- Stanley from Flushing, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken drive belt
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
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- Customer:
- William from East Earl, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10861225
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Handle on my Maytag Dryer broke off while opening
When the part arrived I opened it and just snapped it on.
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- Customer:
- Gwendolyn from BAKER, LA
- Parts Used:
- W10857612
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My Dryer Timer broke off at the plastic part.
My son took the timer hood off with a Phillips, head screwdriver and replace the Timer. Then he put. Tim hood back on the dryer.
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My dryer stopped heating
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
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- Customer:
- Michael from BOILING SPGS, PA
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
My dryer was squeaking with an occasional thump
Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.
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- Customer:
- Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10314173
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
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- Customer:
- Randy from HUNTSVILLE, AL
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Sqeeking noise fron old worn belt and rollers
Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Fort Myers BEach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken drum belt
I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
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- Customer:
- John from New Bedford, MA
- Parts Used:
- W11778253
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken handle
1) removed the old broken filter
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
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- Customer:
- Fred from Macomb, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Whirlpool Gas dryer, run but no heat
I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F
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- Customer:
- Debra from Springfield, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No Gas Heat
I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!
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- Customer:
- Don from Dayton, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11778253
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lint Filter wore out had to be replace
Changed out the lint filter
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