3HLER5437JQ3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.

Our dryer quit heating and I feared that I would have to buy another one as I have never worked on a dryer. But figured I would go online and see what I could learn. Parts Select gave me the info that I needed.
Not being sure which part was bad I decided to start with the one time use Thermal fuse. When I noticed that it only cost 7 bucks and my wife had been complaining that the dryer had not been heating well for a while I figured I would go ahead and replace themostat. I ordered the thermal cut-off kit and replaced both parts. I put them on and plugged it back up and it is heating fine. I found the videos very helpful in showing how to do this.

After receiving the part I unplugged the dryer and took the back cover off of the controls on top off the driver with a Phillips screw driver and visually confirmed that the new switch matched. Removed the wires one at a time from the Push to start switch and connected them to the new one as I removed them. I then plugged the dryer back in and tested that the new switch would fix the problem. Once I knew the new switch was the I uninstalled the bad switch and installed the new switch in to the control face. Put the cover back on and slide the dryer back in to place.

first, I read the other repair stories and used them as a guide.I checked to see if the heating element was broken. It was not. The Thermal Cut off Kit was the ticket for me. I replaced the three easy parts it contained. Repair time was 30 minutes tops that includes checking the heating element and removing and replacing all three possible culprits (of the Thermal Cut-off Kit). Thanks a million. Happy Ending!Oh by the way, my dryer now dries super fast(saving me a bundle)

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.

unpluged the dryer, took off the back, followed instructions and was able to take of the problem on my own.

Fit great,well please with order!

10 min. job, easy to do / two screws top and two inside front / remove old parts install new.

The dryer would dry the clothes fine and run through heat cycles and cool down. The timer would also run down, it just would stop even thought the heat stopped. To repair, I took the back off the timer portion of the dryer. At first I panicked. I did not see any part that looked like the new one I just ordered. I searched the internet and found that the original part looked like a black plastic loop with a black and orange wire connected to it. The part I got was the new design. Then I couldn't figure out if it mattered which end I hooked to the black wire. Another internet search showed it doesn't matter which way current flows through a resistor, so it didn't matter. Hooking in the new part was very easy. The time it took to get the information to identify the part, and determine if it matter which end to hook up to which wire took the longest. I would recommend PartSelect put a picture of the old style right beside the picture of the new style. Also would like them to make clear it doesn't matter which direction the Timer Power Resistor went in.

removed old gasket took door off 4 screws. cleaned seal area applied glue put on gasket easy

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

Installed thermal cut-off kit. Dryer works fine now. Kit very easy to install.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

nobody has said it yet so... to take a dryer apart, take the back off, pull the lint trap, remove two screws on back of the top piece. the whole top shifts forward and disengages two clips on front corners, it then tilts up and back. the front comes off next, this frees up the tub. all parts ordered replaced worn parts, though there was no smoking gun as to the source of the sound. once it was apart, it was a cakewalk. had it up and running in 45 minutes. can't see how it took others two hours.