SLE120RAW-PSLE120RAW Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

The pully wheel was completely worn down as the belt had cut into it over time. I'm not sure if the lever and shaft needed replacing but since the part was inexpensive I decided to replace it as well as the wheel. The easiest way to access the parts was to turn the dryer on its side and remove the bottom panel of the dryer. This eliminated the need to remove the drum. It was then easy to reach in with a wrench and remove nut and bolt that held on the pulley lever. I also had to remove the spring which was attached to the lever. Next I put the new pully wheel on the shaft of the new pulley lever. The most difficult part of the job was installing retainer clip which holds the wheel on the shaft. This took a little persistance. After this was done it was simple to put the assembly back in place, reattach the spring and tighten the nut and bolt. I then replaced the bottom panel of he dryer, turned it upright and plugged it in. The whole job took just over an hour. One tip: Before removing the old assembly, I took a picture of it with my cell phone camera so I would remember how it went back together.

Dryer drum stopped but all other elements seemed functional; couldn't afford new dryer. Unplugged appliance & moved it to my garage (more room to move about). Undid base plate w/tools and found belt slack - identified broken idler pully wheel as part to fix. Went online & found part-select, located part & was way happy: $7.00 part + $7.00 shipping; got part 3 days later. Removed broken pully wheel (take off lock-washer, put wheel on, reinstall lock washer). Cleaned out venting elements (huge lint-ball & some sand in blower intake area). Re-attahced base. Back on-line to see "replace dryer belt" instruction sequence; opened lid of machine (while verticle) and positioned belt properly. Located access port (sealed) at base, knocked out the circular metal plate so I could reach in & thread the dryer belt back around motor & idler pulley wheel. Did test spin (manually) to make sure belt properly threaded, in place. Move appliance back to proper location, plugged in & hooked up venting to outside; ran test & SUCCESS!!!! It even seemed to dry better because of the now cleaned venting area. Labor cost = $0, Part cost < $15.00, Time (actual work) bit over 3 hours total.

Based on my research, the thermal fuse could be blown out so I tested it and it was. I've replaced the thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. bam! it's up and running again. I'd highly recommended ordering your parts thru PartSeclect..the order was easy and shipping is quick. Thanks

I removed the dryer front and the drum, then disconnected the wires from the dryer motor and removed it from the motor mount, after installing the new motor in the motor mount the rest was just putting the dryer back together the same way I took it apart, the best way to do this is to print out the diagram from partsselect.com and follow it step by step, this was so easy everybody can do this and save alot of money for the labor and the parts mark-up, try it you all can do it (SO EASY)

When on the sensor dry setting, the clothes would not get dry, but would get dry on the timed dry setting. So good heat and rotating drum.

We first cleaned the moisture sensor inside the door, located on the vent screen. Once clean, we ran again. It still did not function. We checked the vent and piping for obstructions and all was clear.

From there, we took off the upper panel where the moisture sensor connect to the sensor control board. Used a continuity meter to determine if the signal was getting from the sensor to the board. With the sensor on a low setting, we ran a wet cloth across the sensor and we had continuity from the sensor to the board.

At that point, we replaced the board. It had to sets of wires connected to it, that snapped out easily and it smply snapped out of its position. The new board went into position as easily as the old came out. Reconnected the wire harnesses and re-assembled the upper covers.

Once re-assembled, we ran a load and it cycled as it should.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

I removed the screws that hold the element in place. I disconnected the wires. I took the new part, which was easy to identify and order, assembled per instructions, and attached it to the wires in the dryer, then screwed it in. I normally let my husband do these repairs, but he wasn't available. It was easy and the dryer works perfectly again!

1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.

Went so easy. Removed two screws holding the front cover on. Reached into the back and removed the two screws holding the heating element in. Removed the element(the wires are long enough to pull all the way to the front of the dryer). Took one wire at a time and transposed it to the new element. Then re-installed the element. It maybe took 15 minutes.

I am not mechanical so if I can do it so can. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST!There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer itself remove these and take out the brackets that are held by these two bolts, I used a socket, lift up and peek in to the front top you will see two screws that hold the other side of the top of the dryer lower the back side and move to the front of the dryer now that the back bolts are removed. Take a large screwdriver and place a dishrag or handkerchief so the flat side is inserted where these screws are located{preventing scratches}pry upward it will seperate the top of the dryer from the front of the dryer move over to the next screw and repeat now the top is loose and can be slid backwards until there is room for you to see down in front of the dryer, notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side, take the time to write down there color and in what order they are located as you will have to remove these now inside the front panel from the top about a third of the way are two bolts, one on the left and one on the right use the socket to remove these now pull the front panel to you and lift up, the front panel will now come off set aside. remove the three screws that attach the plastic vent from inside the dryer,pull out plastic vent, vacuum out dust and lint install new plastic vent install the three screws from inside the dryer drum and reverse the process you are finished!

I removed the top cover and located the faulty timer. I then noted the part number, placed the order and the part came the NEXT DAY via regular mail! I replaced the timer, making sure to reconnect the wires to the appropriate connectors. The dryer has been working fine ever since. I am extermely pleased with PartSelect.com. I not only saved myself the price of a new dryer, but I also saved nearly 1/2 off the replacement part based on a quote from a local retail store.

I'm glad I found your website :)

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.
to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.