SDGT09WF Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

Unplug power. Remove the lint filter and remove the 2 screws under the lint cover lid. Use flathead screw driver to pop off the top of the dryer housing. The clips are located at the front two corners.Just wedge and lift up to unclip. Remove two hex head screws on each side disconnecting the side housing from the front housing. Disconnect the wiring harness at the front top right side if you are facing dryer. Lift up on the front housing to unclip the bottom of housing. Just lift up and pull housing face toward you at an angle. The circular dryer piece where clothes go into will be loose but still attached. It will sag down a little. Then on bottom left side unscrew two screws to remove the 2 coils. You will need a stubby phillips screw driver about 1.5" long and you will need to lift up on the dryer circular piece out of the way a little. Once you remove the crews, remove the clip holding the two coils. Remove the wiring from the coils. 1 coil has two leads and one has 3. Replace one at a time just in case your model is slightly different. Be sure to install the coil with the little knobby part up and in alignment for when you reinstall the clip/ bracket that holds it in place. Replace the coils and install the racket/ clip with 2 screws. Reinstall the wires. Reinstalling the front face of dryer housing is a little tricky because you have to slide the bottom back onto the clips while holding the circular dryer part up. Then push the front housing up against the circular piece so they are aligned and fit. While holding it, screw the two hex screws on each side. Then reconnect harness and snap the top housing back onto the front face housing clips. Reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Reinstall the lint trap and plug back in. The dryer is now fixed if that was your problem. Its a fairly simply job once you start doing it. Good luck.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

I shut off the power supply (pulled plug) . Opened the front access door on bottom of dryer, The two coils sat on top of burner unit, with a plate and 2 Phillip head screws securing them. .I used a small set of pliers to pull the terminals off, then I used a short Phillip head screw driver due to the proximity of the dryer drum close by. The coils slide off, slide the new ones on, re secure the plate with screws, reconnect the terminals, plug in the power cord and away you are for a fraction of the cost.

The front panel was taken out and the parts were replaced. After the replacement, the drying time went back to the original 30-40 minutes.

1. Unplugged from wall, turned off gas and opened top cover. 2. Removed two wire clips for door switch and unscrewed front cover (2 screws inside). 3. Removed front cover and moved to side. 4. Unplugged connectors from coils. 5. Unscrewed coil screws. 6. Replaced coils and tightened screws. 7. Replaced front cover, tightened screws and reinstalled wire clips. 8. Closed top cover, turned on gas and plugged in power. 9. Dryer fired right up and made heat.

Gas valve coils need replacing I followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the video followed parts select.com video on YouTube and had no problem. It went exactly as the videos showed!

and the problem wsa solve

bought the new coil valves changed out new for old, presto dryer works now

First I unpluged the dryer,thenI removed the front of the dryer,spun it out of the way but did not detach the door wires.I then took the two skrews out of the braket that held the old coils,unpluged both coils, I replaced both as I did not have the means to find which one was bad.Besides, I did not want to visit the insides of the dryer for another five years. This was a snap and the parts were perfect and arrived timely.

This 10 year old dryer stopped heating. I knew a Maytag would have much more life left in it than that (even my Mom's lowly GE lasted more than 40 years!) so I was sure it could be fixed. Without doing any testing, I had just guessed that the glow bar was bad and replaced it. But that wasn't the problem - the old glow bar still had continuity as tested with my ohmmeter. So I dug in deeper and looked over the schematic posted on PartSelect's website. The glow bar would light up and then go out, but the gas valve never opened. After probing the two solenoid coils for voltage, I decided the primary solenoid was bad. This was confirmed when I took the connector off and checked with an ohmmeter (never do this with the wires connected!) and found no connection at all between the two terminals.
Ordering the new part from PartSelect was fast and easy and my part arrived in two days. The solenoid coil on this dryer can be removed from the gas valve without taking any gas lines apart - I don't know if they're all like that, but it's a great feature. The only hard thing is that there is no access door to inspect the flame like older gas dryers. You have to take the front panel off to watch it working, but that just involves the four screws around the door opening.
If your pre-Whirlpool Maytag dryer is giving you trouble, take heart! These are great machines that last long, are easy to fix, and parts are easier than ever to get with PartSelect!

When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.

Removed Two screws took out the coils put in the new ones
I ordered one day and got them the next day. Thank you partSelect For the quick service.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.