SDG009QF Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

I took the front dryer panel off by removing 4 screws. I the removed 2 screws from the bracker that secured the 2 valve coils. I unplugged the 2 coils the placed new ones in the exact same position. Fastened the valve coil bracket and replaced the front dryer panel. The dryer worked like new. Thanks!!!

The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.

This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!

The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.

Parts Select said 27% chance it was the coils and 26% chance it was moisture sensor. I ordered the coils and it did not fix the problem, my luck. I have now ordered moisture sensor and the next possible part, the cycling thermostat. If one of these solve the problem I will still have much less invested than a repairman would charge.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

Unplug. Remove door and front panel. Unplug two coils. Remove one screw and loosen other on bracket holding coils in place. Slide off coils and replace ( take note one has terminals up and one down). Reassemble.

Downloaded a schematic of the dryer controls. Watched a UTUBE video of how to remove the front panel of a Maytag Performa dryer. It was pretty easy. Consulted your website and found out that bad coils are typical of the symptoms 46% of the time. I have bought parts from you before and happy with results.

easy as pie !

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

1)Pulled electrical connectors off each of two gas valve coils. 2)Removed two Phillips screws and removed coil retainer bracket. 3)Lifted off two old coils and replaced with two new coils. 4)Replaced coil retainer bracket and plugged back connector on each coil; total coil replacement time is less than two minutes. 5)Confirmed gas valve opens and gas ignites every time over a two day test period. 6)Re-installed door. Wife Happy. We spent under $20 for 'M' series new style coil kit; and the $7 shipping got it here in two days. What a deal! Terry Rahmer 8.24.2012

Found symptoms on Part Select website and confirmed that the problem was the coils. It was extremely easy to find and the site saved me hundreds of dollars on a repairman, labor costs and marked up parts. It literally took about 5 minutes to repair. Awesome site!!Thank You

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the front lower cover. Removed the two screws for the bracket that holds down the coils. Unplugged the coils and swapped them out. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Plugged the dryer back in and started it. It's as good as new.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.