AGM679*2 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

First of all, Parts Select is a great service. By giving us an idea of what parts we needed we were able to buy them without a lot of expense. My son and I did this repair together, and it took us a long time. We found an excellent video for repair on the web, and then lost it and couldn't find it again. We had trouble even getting the dryer opened up. That is where a putty knife comes in handy. Be sure to find out how to open it; it will save you a lot of grief. It is supposed to be easy, but it wasn't. Still,it was great to get it fixed so inexpensively. I'll leave the "how I did it" part up to people who had an easier time, but no regrets that we did it. Parts select sent the parts right away.We ended up only using the coil kit.

Checked to see if heating element was warming up by checking through access hole on front of dryer,it was, you know because it glows,so replaced coils and it fixed the problem. Important note, buy the coils as a packet, almost half the price than buying seperately. Thx everybody who sends in info, this is a great site to save people money on fixing appliances

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

All went very easily

open the back pannel and use multimeter to check the wirings and everything checks ok. open the bottom front panel of the dryer and turn the dryer on. the igniter works and the flame came out for seconds and dies off. the igniter keep coming on, but it seems that the gas was not coming out. i checked the gas line valve and it was open. i had a good idea it wasn't the wiring or the gas line, it must be the coil-valve,(safety coil), that letting the gas flow. i order the parts, it came sooner, which is good, and it took me less than 10 minutes to install, and i only use a philip screw driver. i thank you for sending me the right part in short period of time.

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

Opened the dryer door - removed two screws on the left and two screws on the right - pulled the front panel forward and lifted it up to remove. The coils were located on the bottom right hand corner of the dryer, I vacuumed he area and then removed the two screws and bracket which hold the coil in place. Lifted the new coils off paying close attention to their orientation. Installed new coils. Align tab on top of coils with bracket. installed bracket and screws. Tested dryer and then replaced front cover. Very easy and rewarding.

It was a fairly simple repair to perform with the dryer in place. I simply opened the bottom/front access panel to start, the door removes if you pull up after opening. Then I disconnected the two and three wire connector to the two coils. Next I removed the bracket screws that fasten the coils to the valve assembly. This was a little difficult with the screw closest, because of the small clearance and #1 sized phillips(stubby would work well.) The rear screw I managed to remove by using both a small flathead screwdriver(hex shaped shaft) and an adjustable cresent wrench. At this point, it was a simple matter of installing the new coils and the bracket, and then reconnecting the two plugs. It almost made me want to do laundry.

removed front cover and turned unit on, igniter would glow red but burner would not start. ordered m series new style coil kit and installed. turned unit on and igniter came on and burner started right away. all thanks to parts select trouble shooting guide.

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.