DV448AEWXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

I would like to direct the attention to PartSelect instead of my repair. They were awesome in helping me to get my parts. I had called, a few minutes after the deadline for overnight shipping, the gentleman helping me, pushed the order through and I got my parts the next day, allowing me to repair my dryer. I have ordered several parts, for several different appliances, (all Samsung) and PartSelect has always come through for me. Excellent Customer Service!!
P.S. Don't buy Samsung appliances unless you want to get good at repairing them!

I still had to take it apart there was a small sock stuck in the fan that blowes the lent out my wife left the lent filter out one time. Your video was a great help. I'm a mechanic and it was easy thanks Anthony Ratto Tulipbike82@aol.com

Followed video and YouTube most was easy.... put the hooking up the belt took time

Took off the back of the dryer and replaced the thermistor. A $7 part that would have been a couple hundred dollars if we had to call a repairman.

The lemon that I bought has forced me to open it up at least once a year. Anyone with a #2 phillips screwdriver and a good memory can take the challenge. Youtube has few videos on the same model. Best regards, Jim

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

*Disconnect power cord before performing this task...(1) Remove the two screws holding top.(2) Remove four screws holding control module, tilt forward, pull up and unlatch. Place module on top, out of the way (still connected by wires). (3) Open dryer door, remove two screws holding lint trap assembly, close door. (4) Remove four screws on top of front cover, disconnect door light wire, tilt front cover forward, lift up from catch at bottom and remove. (5) Disconnect moisture sensor connection on bottom right for easier access to duct assembly. (6) Remove three screws holding duct assembly support bracket in place, raise duct assembly six inches to allow the bracket to be tilted toward rear and lifted out of the way. (7) Disconnect Red and Blue wires from front of duct assembly and pull assembly carefully from the rear of the unit and out the front paying attention to the wires still connected. (8) Remove wires connected to the thermostat and thermistor. (9) Remove screws holding in both units and replace with new components. (10) Reverse process and test. *note* if the unit appears to heat but clothing still wet, make sure moisture sensor was connected (I must have forgot and got to go back in to check, ooops). Regardless, this is an easy task. Could be intimidating at first but after the part has been accessed twice its no big deal and can be done over a lunch break.

I had a problem a couple of months ago with the dryer not heating and replaced the thermal fuse after checking the the parts with a voltage meter and the dryer worked fine. When I did the repair I also cleaned all the lint out of the dryer, exhaust, and the vent. It worked fine. A couple of weeks ago my wife commented about how hot the dryer was and it seemed unusual. I realized there was another problem but before I could check it, the dryer stopped heating again. Some time ago, the sensor dry funciton quit working so I just went ahead and changed all the electronic componets, the two on the exhaust tube and the two on the heating tube. I assumed the high limit thermostat failed. After unplugging the dryer, I took the two screws loose on the top backside of the dryer that hold the top in place and removed the top, sliding it back. I removed the four screws holding the control panel in place and rotated the panel forward, then up and out of the way. I removed the four screws along the top of the front panel, then the ones from around the opening on the front, and the front door. There was one screw that held the heating tube. I removed it and the tube slid forward. I took the front wire lose and rotated the tube clockwise to pull it out and took off the back wire and changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat. The exhaust tube was right there in the front and all I had to do was change out the parts on it. Everything went back to gether as easy as it came apart and when I plugged the dryer back in, it worked just like new.

I change the Thermistor 3 bracket and worked well for 10 minutes and the thermistor is broken again

After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

changed high limit switch, and sensor grid and thermo fuse