DV203AGS (XAX) Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

I removed the dryer vent and cover to take a look at the inside of unit. Then I saw that wheel on the pulley was damaged and belt was tangled up. I simply replaced the pulley and placed the belt back. Samsung advised that I replace the unit, but myself $800+ on a new unit.

I originally called a repair person to come out but that was a total waste of time and money. He removed the front of the dryer claimed there was a dryer sheet causing the problem and put it back together.
Never again!
I watched a youtube video for step by step instructions on how to take the dryer apart.
I took the front door of the dryer off, removed the filter cover and the dryer drum & belt. Removing this was simple and allowed me to see everything I was working on. With the new part in hand, I removed one wire at a time from the non working heat sensor and connected it to the new part. That way I was sure I had the right connections.
I then removed the thermostat making sure to put the new one back in place exactly as the old one.
I then put the drum back in place with the belt securely fastened. I put the cover back on the lint filter and placed the dryer door back on securing it in place. The dryer is now working perfectly. It takes longer to take the dryer apart than to replace the old parts.

Followed the video on the website and finished it in a short time. Now it works like a new dryer.

Follow the video instructions.

Thank you
partselect.com for a much better heavy duty belt than the original. Way over priced, but well worth it. After watching the video & following it step-by-step, I now have a perfectly running dryer. P.S. don't forget to plug back in the (3) wire harnesses. The entire experience was a great feeling of accomplishment. Thanks again partselect.com

The design of my dryer is a bit different from the video on PartSelect - but it is very close. And if you watch the really good video on PartSelect plus a few others on Youtube you can figure out how Samsung in general designs the different components. You can fix this yourself definitely.

Cost of part to fix - about $50.
Repairman - didn't even ask. Would probably be $300-400.
Cost of replacement $1,000.

I rated the repair "A bit difficult" only because this is the first time I have ever repaired an appliance. If I were to repair this one again, I'd rate it as Easy.

I'm really thankful for the PartSelect video. This makes DIY repairs possible.

Thanks.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

replace Drum support roller & axel and belt

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.