DVE45M500P (A3) Samsung Dryer - Instructions

*** Unplug Dryer ***
Spent years (PITA) trying to figure out how to do this repair.

About 2 weeks ago I came across this U-Tube video.
This video really saved the day and I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this guys video.

Here is the link to an awesome video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u1_gnJAQ5U

Tip: It may help some of you to bring up this video on your phone or laptop to reference as you do the repair.

Good luck
M

Followed the video on the website and finished it in a short time. Now it works like a new dryer.

Follow the video instructions.

I had to take the whole thing apart to replace the drum wrapper. I followed this very helpful YouTube video for the step-by-step instructions on disassembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ul2BIvVEVU&t=428s

Once the new drum was installed, I followed the steps in reverse to put everything back together.

Unplugged the dryer for safety. Unattached top of dryer from door with putty tool. Took front of dryer off. Unplugged door. Took off bracket to heating element case. Pulled out case. Replaced the thermostat. Then put all back together and tested the dryer. Works like a charm.

The design of my dryer is a bit different from the video on PartSelect - but it is very close. And if you watch the really good video on PartSelect plus a few others on Youtube you can figure out how Samsung in general designs the different components. You can fix this yourself definitely.

Cost of part to fix - about $50.
Repairman - didn't even ask. Would probably be $300-400.
Cost of replacement $1,000.

I rated the repair "A bit difficult" only because this is the first time I have ever repaired an appliance. If I were to repair this one again, I'd rate it as Easy.

I'm really thankful for the PartSelect video. This makes DIY repairs possible.

Thanks.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

Thank you
partselect.com for a much better heavy duty belt than the original. Way over priced, but well worth it. After watching the video & following it step-by-step, I now have a perfectly running dryer. P.S. don't forget to plug back in the (3) wire harnesses. The entire experience was a great feeling of accomplishment. Thanks again partselect.com

removed the top cover, remove control panel,remove door, remove belt assy, and pull out old drum and installed new drum. Used only a phillips screw driver and took approx. 30 min. Dryer is quit and drying better.

We unstacked our washer and dryer and needed dryer feet again.

I still had to take it apart there was a small sock stuck in the fan that blowes the lent out my wife left the lent filter out one time. Your video was a great help. I'm a mechanic and it was easy thanks Anthony Ratto Tulipbike82@aol.com

Took off the back of the dryer and replaced the thermistor. A $7 part that would have been a couple hundred dollars if we had to call a repairman.

Followed video and YouTube most was easy.... put the hooking up the belt took time

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!