DV331AEWXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

this site had a video that documented the process. The cabinet in the video was a little different than mine, but close enough to get me through the process. Unlike the video, my dryer was totally plugged with lint and I suspect that cut the airflow and caused the heater element to overheat and burn out. I cleaned all the lint and replaced the heater element just as the video documented. While I had the dryer apart, I lubed the drum rollers with Lithium grease and once assembled it worked perfect.

I ordered twice from this site. the thermistor was the first order, the fuse was the second order. Turns out the thermistor sent was the WRONG one. When I reassemble the dryer, after 20 minutes the thermistor sent burned up to a crispy chard. The ohms on the wrong part was 12ohms. per the dryer diagnostics the thermistor should have been =<1 ohm. I put in the original part and it worked. The fuse did the trick. the thermistor, not so much. Lesson to be learned is to not rely on this sites parts compatibility information. Look at the specs for your dryer from the manufacturer.

I purchased wholesale heater element with sensors. Couple wires and bolts to attach. Trickiest part is disassembling the dryer to remove the old heating unit. You-tube it; it's gold.

I looked up the model number online, searching for the heating element. PartSelect not only had the easiest listing online to find the part, but they also offered a very user-friendly video to show you how to make the repair. The price for the part was roughly 10% less than any of the others listed online.

The part arrived in a few days, and I watched the video a few more times before deciding to tackle the project. I followed the video on a laptop sitting next to the dryer. It made the repair so easy. I was done in an hour and took the time to clean all the lint and debris from inside the dryer. I also cleaned the dryer vent from both inside and outside. The dryer works like brand new.

Your videos are that little extra that will keep me buying again and again.

I pretty much followed the provided videos, but didn't remove the drum. That seemed a bit much. I was able to get the heating element out, and replace the Thermal Fuse and Thermostat. Dryer runs and heats like a top now!

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

It started off as supposed to be 5 minute job but took about 4 and a half hours (most of the time was vacuuming and cleaning the lint from inside the dryer as there was a lot of dryer lint built up including on the heater coils which the lint was charred black. So I went to install the cover filter and spring like in the video but my finger are larger so the spring fell off the ear/tab and fell down into the lint trap chute and into the flywheel that turns the drum so I had to remove the top and front of the dryer to retrieve the spring. That’s when I found even more lint but in the process of removing the front of the dryer I noticed one single screw holding the rear lint cover onto the dryer and so I removed that and pulled it out then with that rear cover in my hand I installed the cover filter and spring then reinstalled it. The video shows you to only remove the 3 screws to remove the front cover and then to stick your hands in the tight space and get the small spring and cover filter on and snap them into place. But if after you pull out the front cover then you will see a screw in the middle on the front side of the drum that is the the only thing holding g the rear cover in place just unscrew that and remove that cover and then you can replace the spring and cover filter and then you can put it back in and screw it back into place and then you won’t run the risk of dropping the spring down the chute like I did. If I did this trick it would have only taken me within 2 minutes to change the part...on a side note after finding all the lint I did, I would recommend taking the front and back of the dryer off and getting in there with a vacuum and cleaning it out once every year or two which will save you from a potential fire.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.