DV206AGSXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)

Remove dryer covers and locate heater assembly. Removed heater assembly and checked visually if the heater coil is opened, I verified this with an ohm meter. Heater Continuity was OK. Next step I checked the heater sensors. Thermal fuse with bracket had no ohm meter reading between two terminals[open circuit]. Order part#35001193 "thermal fuse" with bracket from "partsSelect.com." Assemble back in reverse order. Please note that the dryer heater was filled with lint and needed a good cleaning.

top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....

I YouTube it and there’s a step by step process on how to do it, took maybe 30 mins. If I can so can you

YouTube, YouTube, YouTube. I YouTubed many videos on how to take a dryer apart to reach the drum support roller and axle. After watching numerous videos, I settled on one that had my exact model of dryer. For my dryer, previous inputs said I needed two rollers to for my model. That is not the case. My model actually has 4 rollers, 2 in the front and two in the back. I ordered 2 initially but only needed 1 thankfully since only one roller was bad. Keep it simple stupid is how I got it done. Dryer's are pretty simple machines mechanically. Don't trash your noisy dryer. We bought ours in 2014 and it only recently started giving us issues. This is after 2 moves and being run daily for a family of 6. I'm glad I found partselect.com. They saved me a ton of money.

Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.

had to take top off to get to the front cover screws.Then took the screws out of front cover, pulled it off then pulled the drum out. Man at the amount of lent in the buttom and in the heating element area. Well, after removing drum I found the problem with the pulley. When I got parts to put back together it took a little time and thinking to find out how the pulley an belt went together(belt came off when pulley finally melted in half)with holding drum up to see what's going on. The pulley is laying down,with drum in and belt around it put belt on motor shaft then pull pulley up vertical wrap belt coming down on motor side around pulley. Then put it all together.

Initially I remove the the back panel on the dryer to locate the heating element, but ,next to impossible to remove from this point due to mounting screw located on the blind side of the support bracket.

In order to get to these screw you will have to remove the top of the dryer which is secured with two 10mm screws in the rear. Then remove the control panel secured with four screws.

then I preceded to remove the front of the dryer secured with four screws on the top four screws around the door opening .I gently pull the front open and disconnect the door switch and lift up to remove. I was know able to gain better access to see the screws holding the element housing and support bracket. After removing the three screws I took a picture of the electrical connections for reference which came in handy for reconnection.
The spade connectors are difficult to remove and a flat blade screwdriver works best. Once the element housing is removed from the unit its just a matter of separating the two halves of the housing to gain access to the element itself.

The element is sandwiched between the two halves of the housing and is a bit tricky to reinstall.
It’s best to position the element in the upper portion of the split housing using the four securing screws and then align with the lower half . You then feed the element leads thru the receptacle and bend the securing tabs down and you are ready to reverse the take down procedure..

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

First I replaced the thermostat as some of the blogs and forum indicates the thermostat is the problem. After replacing the thermostat and general cleaning inside, problem still exists. Researched again and found out I have to replace the gas valve coils. Replaced both coils. I did find out that you have to put the covers back to test the unit properly. Put the unit in cycle and lo and behold, the dryer is heating again. Thank you to all who blogged their experiences before because it was a big help to all DIY.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

This repair is easy. The only drag to this repair is you need to almost completely dismantle the dryer just to get to it. So keep track of your screws.........Look on you tube for videos to dismantle the dryer, you will need to take this down to the drum to change....Once I replaced the pulley, it was about 30 minutes later the dryer was operational again.

I ordered twice from this site. the thermistor was the first order, the fuse was the second order. Turns out the thermistor sent was the WRONG one. When I reassemble the dryer, after 20 minutes the thermistor sent burned up to a crispy chard. The ohms on the wrong part was 12ohms. per the dryer diagnostics the thermistor should have been =<1 ohm. I put in the original part and it worked. The fuse did the trick. the thermistor, not so much. Lesson to be learned is to not rely on this sites parts compatibility information. Look at the specs for your dryer from the manufacturer.

This was a troubling exercise. Took apart the dryer covers and removed the drum. Removed the igniter and it had a crack through it. Checked with multimeter for continuity, and there was none. Took a picture of the original installation and sent away for part. Just mount and plug in….reassembled and works fine.