DV317AGGXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

First I replaced the thermostat as some of the blogs and forum indicates the thermostat is the problem. After replacing the thermostat and general cleaning inside, problem still exists. Researched again and found out I have to replace the gas valve coils. Replaced both coils. I did find out that you have to put the covers back to test the unit properly. Put the unit in cycle and lo and behold, the dryer is heating again. Thank you to all who blogged their experiences before because it was a big help to all DIY.

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

This was a troubling exercise. Took apart the dryer covers and removed the drum. Removed the igniter and it had a crack through it. Checked with multimeter for continuity, and there was none. Took a picture of the original installation and sent away for part. Just mount and plug in….reassembled and works fine.

This repair is easy. The only drag to this repair is you need to almost completely dismantle the dryer just to get to it. So keep track of your screws.........Look on you tube for videos to dismantle the dryer, you will need to take this down to the drum to change....Once I replaced the pulley, it was about 30 minutes later the dryer was operational again.

I removed the dryer vent and cover to take a look at the inside of unit. Then I saw that wheel on the pulley was damaged and belt was tangled up. I simply replaced the pulley and placed the belt back. Samsung advised that I replace the unit, but myself $800+ on a new unit.

I originally called a repair person to come out but that was a total waste of time and money. He removed the front of the dryer claimed there was a dryer sheet causing the problem and put it back together.
Never again!
I watched a youtube video for step by step instructions on how to take the dryer apart.
I took the front door of the dryer off, removed the filter cover and the dryer drum & belt. Removing this was simple and allowed me to see everything I was working on. With the new part in hand, I removed one wire at a time from the non working heat sensor and connected it to the new part. That way I was sure I had the right connections.
I then removed the thermostat making sure to put the new one back in place exactly as the old one.
I then put the drum back in place with the belt securely fastened. I put the cover back on the lint filter and placed the dryer door back on securing it in place. The dryer is now working perfectly. It takes longer to take the dryer apart than to replace the old parts.