DV400EWHDWR Samsung Dryer - Instructions

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

See Utube.com

NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.

I removed the dryer vent and cover to take a look at the inside of unit. Then I saw that wheel on the pulley was damaged and belt was tangled up. I simply replaced the pulley and placed the belt back. Samsung advised that I replace the unit, but myself $800+ on a new unit.

I firstly over-ordered parts. The general guidance is check one part and replace if bad, then check the next, etc. I only wanted to do the disassembly once so I ordered all the parts which were involved with generating heat. Turned out the heater duct assembly came with the thermal fuse and thermistor already installed, in addition to the heating element. Once I had the parts, I watched the video which was identified in my parts order. Then I started disassembly. I put screws from each step into their own little container so there was no mixing them up. Everything went exactly as shown in the video, except for the front panel containing the control board. My dryer was slightly different, but still easy to get out. When I had the drum out, the heater duct assemble was easy to remove, one screw only. I transferred connecters from the old duct to the new one-at-a-time to make sure there were no mistakes, then installed the new one with the single screw. Re-assembly went quickly. I plugged it in and, with some hesitation, set it to a short timed cycle and started it. After a few minutes, I hit pause and stuck my hand in the drum and it was warm! The dryer has continued to work since. Repair successful!

Dryer was pretty easy to disassemble. The video helped, especially when re-routing the drive belt. Would definitely but from Parts Select again!

I originally called a repair person to come out but that was a total waste of time and money. He removed the front of the dryer claimed there was a dryer sheet causing the problem and put it back together.
Never again!
I watched a youtube video for step by step instructions on how to take the dryer apart.
I took the front door of the dryer off, removed the filter cover and the dryer drum & belt. Removing this was simple and allowed me to see everything I was working on. With the new part in hand, I removed one wire at a time from the non working heat sensor and connected it to the new part. That way I was sure I had the right connections.
I then removed the thermostat making sure to put the new one back in place exactly as the old one.
I then put the drum back in place with the belt securely fastened. I put the cover back on the lint filter and placed the dryer door back on securing it in place. The dryer is now working perfectly. It takes longer to take the dryer apart than to replace the old parts.

*** Unplug Dryer ***
Spent years (PITA) trying to figure out how to do this repair.

About 2 weeks ago I came across this U-Tube video.
This video really saved the day and I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this guys video.

Here is the link to an awesome video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u1_gnJAQ5U

Tip: It may help some of you to bring up this video on your phone or laptop to reference as you do the repair.

Good luck
M

Followed the video on the website and finished it in a short time. Now it works like a new dryer.

I had to take the whole thing apart to replace the drum wrapper. I followed this very helpful YouTube video for the step-by-step instructions on disassembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ul2BIvVEVU&t=428s

Once the new drum was installed, I followed the steps in reverse to put everything back together.

Unplugged the dryer for safety. Unattached top of dryer from door with putty tool. Took front of dryer off. Unplugged door. Took off bracket to heating element case. Pulled out case. Replaced the thermostat. Then put all back together and tested the dryer. Works like a charm.

Follow the video instructions.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.