LNC8435A80 Norge Dryer - Instructions

I suspected the high limit fuse. I unplugged the machine, lifted the top, found the high-limit fuse (about the size of four dimes glued together) just to the right of the heating coil. I pulled the two wires off and taped them together. Plugged the machine back in and it worked perfectly. I made sure the heating coils started to glow red. When the part arrived, I replaced the old unit with the new, plugged the two wires back on, and I was done. Just for additional information, when I touched the heating coil during the repair, it broke. After 16 years, the heating coils get brittle, so I also replaced the heating coil and it's thermostat just above it (about the size of 6 quarters glued together). I hope this gets me another 16 years.

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

Thanks to reports from others, I concluded that most likely the gas ignition coils (one or both) were no longer functioning properly. I replaced both with the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit which is about 1/2 the price of either coil individually -- yes,true,go figure! The actual replacement took only about 10 minutes. What was most difficult and took the most time was the removal of the front panel of the cabinet -- this was difficult only because there were no instructions in my owner's manual (or any other source I could find) and it took me awhile to figure it out. Now I could do the whole job in about 20 minutes! The detailed instructions from others as to the process of replacing the coils was invaluable -- I don't know if I would have been able to figure that out on my own. But most important was the information that enabled me to diagnose the problem in the first place. Thank you, all you previous comment contributors.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

I watched the video tape

Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......

Checked out the coil seemed ok. So I replaced the radiant flame sensor. No change. Then I replaced the High limit sensor still the heat was not staying on. I read some were in the troubleshooting guide that the coil can test good, but can still malfunction. So that was it new coil fix it, works like a new Dryer again.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.

Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.
Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

i followed part select instructions that probable cause was either thermal fuse or high limit thermostat.put ohm meter across both & saw thermal fuse(has pink dot on it) part 53-1182 was open.ordered thermal fuse replacement kit. part#LA-1053. the problem i had was after reaching down the side of heating housing removing the bracket with the thermal fuse,replacing & reconnecting it i had a hard time reinstalling the bracket,very tight space & i don't have very big hands.finally got the fuse in it's hole in the bracket & slid & jammed the bracket into the side of the mounting housing & it stayed secure.dryer started

Pulled the old seal off then pushed the new one in place.

I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.